Mount Dungarvan IV
Dundy Peak III
Cloudy
Ridge IV
July 31, 2024
Mountain heights:
2614
m, 2432 m, 2541m
Total elevation gain: approximately 1600 m
Ascent time to Dungarvan
via Lost Horse Creek: 4:25
Traverse time
to Dundy: 2:10
Traverse time
to Cloudy Ridge: 1:45
Descent time
via Red Rock Canyon: 3:30
Scrambling with
Ryan and Jill.
When Ryan asked
if I was interested in ascending Mount Dungarvan again, my response was an
unqualified “YES”! The Irish named peak is still one of my favourite scrambles
of all time, featuring a wonderful approach via Lost Horse Creek, tons of
hands-on scrambling, and an exciting finish up a chimney and over a chockstone.
Actually, the “unqualified” part is not quite true. I did ask Ryan and Jill
if they would consider ascending Dungarvan, traversing over to Dundy, then to
Cloudy Ridge, and descending via Red Rock Canyon. Dave and I had completed Dundy
to Cloudy using this general route and adding the stretch of terrain between
Dungarvan and Dundy had enormous appeal to me. Fortunately, I received an
unqualified “YES” from the couple. As it turned out, this plan worked well for
all three of us – Ryan had already completed Dungarvan, but not Dundy or
Cloudy, Jill had not ascended any and, as stated, I was excited to see what
treasures lie between the “Duns”.
After dropping
a vehicle off at Red Rock Canyon, we hiked/scrambled up Lost Horse Creek,
making good time of the approach (even with me stopping every 10 seconds to
photograph the amazing terrain!). 
A steep grind up to the start of the
scrambling ensued. Not-so-good and not-good-at-all news from here: the
not-so-good: cloudy skies on a day forecast to be completely clear; the
not-good-at-all: vicious west winds. The cloudy skies were disappointing but
inconsequential. The wind was going to be very consequential.
As soon as the
scrambling started, it didn’t! In less cryptic verbiage, we unfortunately availed
ourselves upon many of the easy bypass routes along the ridge far more than any
of us would have liked. While the wind was largely responsible for taking
easier routes instead of the more challenging ones, these decisions were also
the result of the surprising number of pronounced trails now present on the
mountain. I imagine these trails are the result of the increased popularity of
the south ridge ascent route. I don’t recall seeing a fraction of them on our
first ascent, back in 2005, and only a few on a trip with Dave in 2021.
Nevertheless,
we were still able to enjoy some hands-on scrambling and as always, the pleasure
of Ryan and Jill’s company was the real highlight of the trip – two of the
classiest, genuine, and most sincere humans I know (and they are both awesome
scramblers too!).
The scrambling
did pick up for the summit block. The easiest route (that I’ve found) involves
a short but vertical step up and over a conglomeration of chockstones.
Thankfully, there are enough bomber foot- and handholds to inspire some
confidence going up, but, as always, it’s the coming down that can prove to be
more challenging and nerve-wracking. Recalling the trauma we subjected Dave’s
backpack to by dropping it down the step on return, we wisely left our packs
below. Jill and Ryan tackled this crux this ease and within minutes we
were are the summit, enjoying the fine view and trying to ignore the insane
wind! We didn’t take an excessively long break, as Dundy Peak was calling.
Neat cloud over Mount Blakiston - I just wish it hadn't brought friends along!
Near the start, Ryan and Jill did a great job of not getting
their feet wet. I stepped immediately into the creek to eliminate the
need for rock-hopping.
Because my feet were already wet, I took the wading route here (photo by Ryan)
Ryan's view from.... (photo by Ryan)
...the route he and Jill took to stay dry
Still dry
Water has carved out many awesome pathways along this creek
Deadfall is sometimes a good thing (photo by Ryan)
Nearing the end of the slog up the initial part of Dungarvan's south ridge
End of the slog...
...and the start of the scrambling
Easy stuff at the beginning
Quickly graduating to serious scrambling or easier bypassing on the left (photo by Ryan)
On our first ascent Mark, Dan, James, and I went up here
Today we picked a much easier route
Easy scrambling
The next step is very steep but doable. Again, we took an easy route around the left to bypass it.
Back on the ridge
Easy does it here; there's quite a drop-off to the right
Definitely going around this one
The ridge alternates between scrambling and enjoyable ridgewalking. And now, all of that cloud's friends have shown up!
Fortunately, clear skies and the beautiful summit block are in front of us
Jill is all smiles regardless of the cloudy conditions behind us and the fierce winds (photo by Ryan)
Fun scrambling here (photo by Ryan)
So much for those clear skies in front (photo by Ryan)
Approaching the daunting limestone band
Everyone bypasses this one
Heading left to find a route up (photo by Ryan)
The band has several cool features
Another easy route up (photo by Ryan)
Jill works her way back to the ridge
A stretch of easy terrain before the summit block
Rogan Peak near the left. Kevin Barton and I completed the super interesting Galwey, Rogan, Dungarvan traverse in 2007.
About time we saw some lichen
Ryan and Jill ascend the ridge, while the clouds thicken even more behind us
The summit block
Looking forward to the red argillite that's to come
Here's some
And with lichen
Same as above
Approaching an important junction. There are other routes to the summit, as we found out of on our first ascent...
...but going around to the right side leads to the easiest one
Jill and I took the easy route to the ascent gully (photo by Ryan)
Ryan took a more adventurous route
The ascent gully looks challenging from here
Fortunately the grade is manageable
Climbing the crux (photos by Ryan)
Jill makes the final few moves up the crux
So does Ryan
The summit cairn
Two thirds of the happy scramblers on summit #1
View to the northeast - lots of prairie in that direction
The other two thirds (but that makes four thirds???) (photo by Ryan)
Southwest view
Someone was up here exactly 100 years earlier! (photo by Ryan)
Click HERE to
continue to Dundy
LOG
