Mist Mountain II




     




 
July 1, 2025
 
Mountain height:       3140 m
Total elevation gain:  approximately 1400 m
Ascent time:              5:00
Descent time:            2:20
 
Scrambling with Mark.
 
Mist Mountain is one of those peaks that I’ve always wanted to repeat, but via a different route than the Kane difficult scramble route I used in 2003. I had attempted Daffern’s easier route via the south side, in 2002 but was turned back when super violent winds threatened to remove me completely from the mountain! Our plan for the day was redemption on the Daffern route.
 
We were surprised to find the parking area quite full at 8 am. Had Mist become that popular? Yes and no. Most of the parties we encountered were on their way to the col between Mist and Nameless Ridge (an outstanding viewpoint in itself), or the now very famous Mist Mountain Hot Springs.
 
It took us about an hour to hike from the parking lot to the col, but what a scenic affair it is, once out of the trees. The lush green slopes on both sides of the valley and beautiful rock on Mist’s southeast ridge were cause for many photos. Needless to say, the view at the col was even better, now featuring a host of peaks to the north and east.
 
Although intent on following the Daffern route throughout, that cool rock on Mist’s southeast ridge got the better of us. Suddenly we were ascending a very steep and very foreshortened scree/rubble slope towards the ridge. Upon reaching the stunning ridge, we turned northwest, then north, hoping to be able to follow this ridge all the way to the summit.
 
That didn’t happen. The bipolar ridge alternated between easy and terrifying – at times super wide and at other times super narrow and exposed. We would make good progress and then be stymied by terrain beyond our capabilities. The right side of the ridge worked occasionally to bypass the narrow sections, but a cliffband below prevented us from escaping down to the valley below, where Daffern’s easy route sat.
 
Further along, the left side allowed us to keep moving, but soon the ridge transformed into a jagged array of near-vertically tilted rock. Progress on the ridge was an impossibility and bypassing the difficulties on the left side would have required a huge elevation loss. Disappointed, we thought we were done here and considered bailing down the west side of the mountain and perhaps summiting Mount Lipsett as a consolation. However, a last-ditch effort to find a route on the right side paid off. Mark led us across and down rubble and snow slopes to the valley and trail below. Although we were relieved to be back on easy terrain, it was a little comical to realize we had spent 2.25 hours on that ridge to eventually make it to a point that would have taken no more than 30 minutes to reach had we stuck to the trail. No regrets, however – that ridge provided outstanding scenery and certainly a thrilling experience you wouldn’t get down in the valley.


 
Of course, the summit of Mist would be attained easily now that we were back on route. However, a “skipping through flowery meadows” frolic it was not! The slope that goes up to Mist’s south ridge is steep and brutally foreshortened. Also, the footing is totally conducive to a rapid, scree-surfing descent, but conversely, a gruelling “two steps up, one step down” ascent.
 
After what seemed and felt like an eternity we reached the ridge, deciding to leave our backpacks and run (actually more of a lumbering plod given our energy levels) up to the summit. First, I quickly went up to the top of a nearby highpoint. A little lighter we arrived at the summit of Mist exactly 5 hours after leaving the car – not an awful ascent time, in light of the 2 hour detour we took. A few clouds had moved in by this time, but the summit view was still outstanding.

 
 
There would be no detours for descent! We followed the Daffern route in its entirety, enjoying the plunge-stepping scree and then a well-worn trail down the valley, back to the col, and out to the parking area.
 
A fantastic return to a familiar peak. Although Mark and I are both far more conservative in our route choices in the mountain these days, I’m glad we still have a little of the adventurous spirit left in us!      
 
Epilogue: after reviewing our Nameless Ridge trip from 2010, I realized we had gained the first highpoint of Mist’s southeast ridge on that trip (GR492007). Bewildering that neither Mark nor I remembered a single detail of any of that!



The Sun rises over Nameless Ridge



First view of the amazing rock on Mist's southeast ridge



Close-up



Looking back down the valley we just ascended. Odlum Ridge in the background.



Getting close to the col



Getting close to an arctic lupine



The southeast outlier of Mist Mountain appears



Still obsessed with the rock of the southeast ridge



Steps away from the col. Nameless Ridge behind.



Surveying the routes ahead



Nice view to the northeast



Passing by some cool rock on the left side



So much for sticking to the Daffern route - we are now heading up to the southeast ridge



Tedious terrain to get there



Mark takes a different line up to the ridge



Looks close but the ridge is still far away



Arrived and taking a much needed break



And time for some unapologetic posing



Mark and the next section of the route



Stunning scenery



Just the route ahead



But more posing is needed first!



Mark leads the next part



Same as above with some flowers



Distinctive pinnacle. You'd think one of us would have remembered passing by this feature in 2010!



Getting steeper but the rock is fairly solid



My view of Mark



His view of me



Lots of cool rock to enjoy en route to the first highpoint



Same as above



And again. The summit of Mist is now visible in the centre. The highpoint to the right is Mist's southeast outlier.



Mark reaches the highpoint at GR492007. With the new technology we use to navigate the mountains, grid reference numbers (GR's) have faded into relative obscurity.



Last few steps for me



Continuing the trip on easy terrain, but that won't last long



Things are getting more serious already



Bypassing the exposed ridge, by dropping down to the right side of it



Traversing. We looked for a route down to the valley below, but there's a huge cliff below us



Back on the ridge



Now on the left side



Looking down a potential escape route if the ridge doesn't go



Still going forward though



Approaching one of the more dramatic scenes of the trip



There it is. This overhanging slab is super smooth on its east side and super impressive.



Better view of the surroundings



The next highpoint is close by and we are hoping for easier terrain beyond



And yes, it does start off easy...



...but then it's not



Circumventing tough stuff on the left side again



This could be the end of the line. The tilted strata at the left looked way too difficult to get around.



Last-ditch effort to find a route around the right side



There is one!



The snow helped a little in getting down to the valley



A comical look at a point on the trail that would have taken us about 30 minutes to reach from the col, but we took 2.25 hours!



Following Mark's tracks in the snow



And up we go



A firm layer of snow all the way to the ridge would have been great



Instead we get a tedious, steep, foreshortened slog



Sometime later (actually much later!) Mark approaches the ridge



On the ridge, with the summit at the left. Mark ditches his backpack and heads for the summit while I go to the nearby outlier.



There's someone up there already



Mark is just a dot now



View from the outlier



Now heading for Mist's summit



View to the north from the ascent slopes



Northeast



Last 100 m to the top



Mark is already there



A spent older brother. In fairness, I was spent too!



View to the west



View to the south



The east side of Mount Joffre



Mount King George, just left of centre



Mount Sir Douglas, just left of centre



A duo of scramblers on their way to join us



East



Last pose of the day



Scary ridges in front and Mount Rae at the left



The Banded/Outlaw/Cornwall/Glasgow quartet



Crumble Peak, right of centre



Mount Head and Holy Cross Mountain to the right



Heading down



A nostalgic look at our track down the snow from a few hours earlier



Mercifully easy terrain to descend compared to our ascent route



Spent, but happy to be on a good trail



The outlier



One section of snow to get by. Clearly the cleaner snow has slid recently.



Almost back to the col



Parting look at Mist



Guess the pose at the summit wasn't the last



Beautiful pines trees near the end of a beautiful trip

The End

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