The Blade attempt
August 14, 2011
 
Roundtrip time:  9:30
 
Scrambling and a little climbing with Kevin.
 
Although Kevin and I did have hopes of completing this infrequently ascended outlier of the more popular Mount Blane as a day trip, those dreams faded fairly early in the day, whereupon the reminder of the trip became more of a reconnaissance mission.
 
While other peaks of the Opal Range consist of steep scrambles to the col and then difficult scrambling or easy climbing to the summit, this is not so with The Blade. Getting to the col itself requires trad climbing at a 5.7 level and from there severely exposed 5.7 climbing to the summit. And to get to the 5.7 section that leads to the col can also be very challenging, as Kevin and I found out.     
 
After hiking up King Creek and then following the south fork for a short distance, we started up what we hoped was the correct ascent slope. It probably was, although other routes certainly looked feasible. However regardless of the specific route, it became quite clear that this ascent to an Opal Range peak col was far more challenging than its neighbours. The terrain was quite steep and exposed in a few sections. As well, several of the ascent gullies were choked with rock-hard snow, forcing us to bring out the rope long before we arrived at the real climbing.
 
We continued up to a point near the climbing, but wisely decided to call it a day there. Continuing would have almost guaranteed an epic and personally I wasn’t in the mood (I’m sure Kevin wasn’t either!).  

A good day of exploration and no day in the magnificent Opal Range is ever a wasted day.  


Mount Blane (left) and The Blade


Kevin approaches one of the lower, snow-filled gullies


Getting ready to hit the snow


Kevin leads the way, alongside the snow;
going straight up it would have definitely required crampons and an ice axe



Kevin negotiates the crux of the snow section


Kevin checks out an exposed route


King Creek Ridge


Kevin leads another difficult section


Mount Wintour


The summit block of Wintour


More scrambling higher up

   
More snow higher up



The steep limestone walls characteristic of the range


Same as above


The 5.7 climb to the col trends to the right


The steep, grassy slopes of the west side of the Opal Range and Grizzly Peak in the centre


The southwest side of Mount Brock

LOG