Mount Allan IV
  
 
October 3, 2023
 
Mountain height: 2819 m
Elevation gain:    1500 m
Ascent time:        4:40
Descent time:      3:20
 
Solo scramble.
 
The objective of the day was to finish the job Mark and I had failed to complete 20 years earlier – an ascent of Mount Collembola from Dead Man’s Flats. The weather forecast was perfect, and a recent snowfall had dumped enough white stuff on the mountains to make the trip more scenic, but probably not enough to hamper progress up the long, steep route.
 
In short, the weather was far from perfect and there was way more deep, unconsolidated snow on the mountain than predicted. Upon reaching the point where you leave the Centennial Ridge Trail and start up Collembola’s north ridge, I decided an attempt wasn’t worth the effort. Likely it would have involved the same type of strenuous travel Mark and I had encountered in 2003, I didn’t bring snowshoes (unlikely they would have helped anyway), and, as stated, the weather sucked! (at least relative to what was predicted). As well, the Centennial Trail had already been packed down by several generous people and I wasn’t in the mood for any unnecessary trail breaking. Aside from turning around and going home, continuing on the trail towards Mount Allan was the only option.
 
 This was my first time on the north section on the trail and though it has some interesting features, this route pales in comparison to the awesome ascent from the Ribbon Creek side (south). Unfortunately, the human tracks I was following ended right where they would have been the most useful. Here the trail traverses steep slopes below the ridge on the left side. Without snow this traverse would be inconsequential, however, snow was aplenty and suddenly you are dealing with exposed terrain where a slip could have severe consequences. Microspikes and slow, cautious travel were both required to get past this section.
 
The remainder of the ascent unfolded with ease, though it was much longer than anticipated. (Almost) needless to say, my motivation was not riding that usual high experienced when clear skies do prevail. A very brief summit stay preceded the easy but very long descent via the same route.
 
A disappointing day, due to the weather, but what a workout this route is! Having now completed both approaches of the Centennial Ridge Trail, I would probably limit my travels to the Ribbon Creek side for both ascent and descent. I can’t think of a single advantage to the north approach, though it does offer slightly easier access to Collembola. "And so fare thee well" Centennial Ridge Trail North (love Kenneth Branagh's Shakespeare!).

The first peak of Mount Lougheed (left) and The Windtower



A glimpse of The Three Sisters



Ascending that bare slope on the left would have granted me a snow-free ascent to Collembola's north ridge, however, at this point I had decided against that objective because of the less than perfect weather



Mount Allan's north ridge is still some distance away



There are several random larches on the north side, but nothing compared to the swath of larches on the south side



Allan's north ridge is now close. The route goes way over to the right before steeply gaining the ridge.



Collembola's north ridge, with that snow-free ascent route at the left.



On the north ridge. The three peaks of Lougheed and Wind Mountain on full display, but those clouds are most unwelcome!



So I will turn my attention to lichen on rock



Easy travel for a while



Still easy - the trail dips around the rock band on its right side



Awesome lichen-covered rock. The south side route offers an extended section to explore this kind of terrain.



And the trail goes right around it



Part of the traverse between Allan and Collembola



Looking back, down the ridge



Here's where the terrain gets more serious, on the left side of the ridge



Glad I had microspikes here. Took out the ice axe too, just in case. Note the trail marker.



An easy scramble route leads back to the ridge



Huge cairn marks the point where the trail goes below the ridge



Looks easy from here and it is, but it's also surprisingly long



Another huge cairn that does not mark the summit



View to the northeast



Another cool rock to ogle



Same as above



There's the summit and yes, it's still some distance away



As stated, this route does have some interesting scenery



Interesting fin of rock, extending down the mountain



The end is in sight



Last stretch to the top



The forecast forgot the "sunny" part



Trudge to the summit has little snow



Summit view to the northeast, featuring the traverse to Collembola



Same as above, including more of the view to the north



East



Lougheed and Wind are obviously to show-stoppers to the west



Looking back at the summit after a two-minute stay



Collembola again



That rock again




That scramble again



The traverse below the ridge was easier on return



Same as above



Rock



A rock and The Three Sisters



Pigeon Mountain



Back to that view of the Sisters. Endless kilometres of viewless hiking to end the trip.

The End

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