Buchanan Ridge IV







 
December 29, 2023
 
Mountain height: 2594 m
Elevation gain:    1000 m
Ascent time:        4:00
Descent time:      2:35
 
Scrambling with Mark.
 
I was excited to take Mark up this route up Buchanan Ridge. An early December ascent in 2020 cemented itself as one of my favourite routes in the park. Although not as scenic as the “normal” route via Mount Carthew, this line is the most direct to the highest point of Buchanan Ridge, where a wonderful traverse down to Buchanan Peak awaits. Quick shout-out to Kevin Barton ans Sonny Bou, whose idea this route was back in 2005 – thank you, my friends!
 
We arrived at the start to see a shocking lack of snow on the ascent slopes for late December – the snowshoes would be staying in the car. After crossing knee-deep Cameron Creek (I can also add a thank you to the inventor of hipwaders here!), we donned our microspikes and started up a subsidiary creek, enjoying easy travel due to the lack of deep snow. That changed upon leaving the creek onto the main ascent slope. Microspikes were sufficient for ascending the steep and sometimes slippery terrain, however descending would be more challenging – a problem for later.
 
The crux rock band was soon reached. In four ascents I don’t think I’ve ever used to same route to get above the band, but that’s because weaknesses abound – take your pick. More easy travel followed, before embarking on the super foreshortened slog to the summit. Throughout, the weather toyed with us, at times looking to improve, only to revert to that annoying thin layer of cloud status. Things could have been much worse, but I was hoping for a repeat of 2020 and this was not quite it.
 
After enjoying a downright balmy ascent, the other weather surprise reared its miserable head at the summit – a light wind that made for bone-chilling temperatures. We had already downgraded the trip to just Buchanan Ridge because of the hazy skies and the shortness of the day. However, the almost intolerable cold put a final nail in the coffin of any hope of continuing down to Buchanan Peak. No way were either of us about to expose our hands to the cold while changing into crampons. We did descend the ridge a short distance, looking for reprieve from the wind, but none was to be found and so we returned to the summit and immediately started down.
 
Thankfully, we soon warmed up and could enjoy some of the terrific rock scenery on descent. Below the crux rock band, we did decide to switch from microspikes to crampons – good decision, as the daytime heat (lower down, that is) had made the slopes even more slippery.
 
Not quite a triumphant repeat of December 5, 2020, but still a thoroughly enjoyable day on one of Waterton’s finest. We are sure to return on a perfectly clear day to complete the traverse to the Peak.

A cool frozen waterfall is encountered shortly after crossing Cameron Creek



Same as above with the Moon



Approaching the crux rock band. The other crux of the day was the very steep and slippery slopes below the rock band.



Mark approaches a weakness in the rock band



Mount Blakiston gets the first rays of Sun



Above the crux, the remainder of the ascent appears to be straightforward. It is, but is also very foreshortened.



Mark grinds up the slopes. Mount Rowe, the eastern outlier of Rowe and Mount Lineham in the background.



View to the west



On the ridge and the summit is in view



So is the terrific view of Lineham, Blakiston, and Ruby Ridge



Still slogging up the ridge. Mount Carthew in the centre.



Long Knife Peak



Part of Kishinena Ridge - a somewhat remote peak with difficult access



Mark and the view to the south. The Akamina Parkway snakes up the valley below.



Mark is far below. The final section of the ascent is the most foreshortened part of the route.



Great view but marred by the light cloud



Sheltering behind rock to get out of the increasingly cold wind



The impressive north side of Mount Carthew



The summit block of Buchanan is all red argillite



The summit cairn at the end of the snowy ridge



View from the ridge



While of entire upper half of the ascent route was snow-free, the east side of the peak was holding plenty of the white stuff



Mark ascends the final section



Mark hits of the ridge at the left



I'm at the summit (left) wondering how it could be above 10 degrees Celsius in the valley and feeling like minus 30 at the summit!



Trying to look warm and failing miserably!



View to the northeast, north, and northwest



Heading east to see Buchanan Peak



Stay off the snow here



Mark takes a wide berth around the snowy east face











Immediately north sits "Buchanan, The Middle Child" (a very unofficial name). Dave suggested "Senator Peak", a far more fitting unofficial name, in honour of Senator William Ashbury Buchanan.



The Lower Waterton Lake is visible from here







Buchanan Peak in the centre. Not today, but I'm sure we'll find another opportunity.



Mark descends the ridge towards Buchanan Peak. We were looking for shelter from the viciously cold wind.



Haven't found it yet



Still no



Heading back to the summit



We thought we could get reprieve from the wind behind this outcrop, but the infamous Waterton wind finds every nook and cranny!



Lots of the snow on anything east facing















Back near the summit ridge



The cairn and those beautiful snowy slopes again



Last round of summit photos before the easy descent



Same as above



Descending



Mark on the foreshortened slope



The descent features great views of Blakiston behind the colourful rock on the Buchanan ridge



And lots of interesting rock on the ridge itself



Case in point



Buchanan and Carthew



Back to the colourful rock of the ridge







The most snow we encountered on the upper slopes







Neat little gap in the rock to descend



Mark does the same



Enjoying the scenery far more now that our hands have relinquished their ice cube status!







The road is still far below



More cool rock scenery



Same as above



Short break to take it in



Resting among the red argillite



Continuing down



Passing through the trees stripped by the Kenow fire



Back at the subsidiary creek. Following it further up the valley leads to a couple of cool routes up Mount Carthew.



Back at the first frozen waterfall







And back to Cameron Creek



Of course it's long exposure photo time!







The nice thing about hip-waders is you hangout in the middle of the creek without having your feet and legs turn to popsicles!



Ice on rock that reminded me of a jellyfish



Ice close-up



Farther back



Normal exposure photos are okay too



But one more long for good measure

The End

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