Cloudowan Peak II


 
June 18, 2022
 
Mountain height: 2570 m
Elevation gain:    1263 m
Round-trip time:  8:49
 
Scrambling with Dave.
 
What a crazy, cool day in Waterton!
 
Initially, both Dave and I were tempted to cancel the trip altogether, as Waterton and the surrounding area were bombarded with torrential rains and thunderstorms all night and early morning. Miraculously the skies started to clear around 7:15 am and by 8 we were gearing up at the Red Rock Canyon parking lot.  
 
Given my very hazy recollection of the first trip up Cloudowan with Mark in 2007, I was totally up for a repeat ascent. As well, Mark and I had approached the ascent as a technical climb, though we did find a non-technical way down; on this day Dave and I would be searching for a scramble route up but something a little more “scrambly” than 2007’s descent route.  
 
After hiking the Snowshoe trail for about half a kilometre, we turned right, up grassy, flowery (and very wet!) slopes towards the ridge. The surroundings were beautiful and the mountain air wonderfully refreshing – already the trip was a success and we had barely started.    
 
Hiking the ridge was no-less captivating and rewarding. A huge bank of firm snow on the right side provided great footing, as well as scenic interest. Both Dave and I agreed that getting up to this point alone was a worthy endeavor. And then the fun starts….scrambling and route-finding your way through up sometimes easy but sometimes complex terrain.
 
The only real downside of the trip reared its not so pretty head right away – and that was the wet rock. While neither Dave nor I were “slip, slidin’ away”, the condition of the rock was enough to zap our confidence in places where confidence was needed. As such, we bypassed several challenging routes in favour of more conservative ones. 
 
Nevertheless, the route we took was fun, interesting, and full of nice surprises. Dave did the brunt of the heavy lifting, leading us up a steep snow slope and finding a nice scramble route through the challenging limestone rock band that lines most of the area peaks. Above the limestone band more route-finding decisions awaited, but soon enough we topped out at the end of the summit ridge and a magnificent panorama in all directions.
 
I thought we were home-free at this point – a scenic ridgewalk followed by a steep gully ascent to the summit. I did recall that Mark and I had used a rope to ascend the gully, but we had downclimbed it on descent. The ridgewalk unfolded as predicted, the summit block not so. We hiked right past the correct gully and ended up at the east end of the summit block, hoping it would yield with relative ease. It did not and we reluctantly decided to call it a day, somewhat baffled about our failure to find the route to the top.


 
On return, we spotted a gully that I thought might be the correct one, but it looked insanely steep and very exposed. Dave started up the gully and in fact made it about two-thirds of the way up. Although he could have made the summit from this route, once again the wet rock and moss was cause for concern and he wisely backed down. And then we found it! The correct gully was the first one. Dave led the way and within ten minutes we were up on each of the two closely spaced summits.
 
Clouds had formed all around at this point, but no apparent threat of a thunderstorm yet. We stayed long enough to enjoy the terrific summit view and then started down, just case the “apparent” became less so! Downclimbing the gully required slow and exact moves but was not as crazy exposed as Dave’s other route. More or less following the remainder of our ascent track provided a relatively easy and fast way down.          
 
An amazing second run up Cloudowan! Big thanks to Dave for leading most of the trip, punching steps for me in hard snow, and just being a delightful human being to be around!

Click HERE to see Dave's fantastic report

Dave's map of the route



The trip starts at amazing Red Rock Canyon (photo by Dave)



The lower slopes of the objective are littered with arrowleaf balsamwood (had to check Dave's report to get the name!)



Very few trees. Hard to believe Mark and I endured a hideous bushwhack directly from the parking lot, when these open slopes are less than a kilometre away.



Anderson Peak is an aesthetic beaut! And also has one of the best scramble routes in Waterton.



Another weird plant whose identity is a complete mystery to me! Thankfully Dave knows - it's wooly weed (photo by Dave)



Close-up of dew on wooly weed



Ascending easy slopes, with Mount Blakiston (left) and Anderson Peak behind (photo by Dave)



Straightforward route ahead, but it's quite foreshortened (photo by Dave)



Cloudy Ridge is living up to its name



Atop the ridge, with Cloudowan front and centre



Cloudowan is also sporting a "cloud hat", but will soon be gone (photo by Dave)



Approaching the cool snow bank



Wonderful hiking up the ridge (photo by Dave)



Dave takes a break from the snow to see how the ridge is



The road ahead



Dave in a small tree well. Some of the wells were well over 1 metre deep.



The snow ends



Dave and Mount Glendowan



Looking back (photo by Dave)



Yeah - more snow!



And then it's replaced with classic, blocky, colourful, Waterton rock



Dave on one of many small pinnacles along the ridge



Closing in on more serious terrain (I'm well camouflaged on the ridge) (photo by Dave)



Dave tackles the first challenging step along the ridge



He's up the first part, but the terrain beyond is steeper and the rock is wet. He wisely backed down.



Traversing left would become the theme of the day from here on in (photo by Dave)



Lots of colourful rock to ogle at while going sideways



We tried to hug the rock and stay above the snow, but it became too dangerous and we backed down here too and went around (photo by Dave)



Around the first obstacle and heading back to the ridge



The great weather continue to surprise us; the great views are not surprising (photo by Dave)



Another section of easy and scenic ridgewalking before Challenge #2 (photo by Dave)



Dave gets another highpoint



....with a serious drop on the left



Same as above



Already we can see the need to traverse left again



But it's always cool to get right up to the rock first. Dave checks out the daunting formation.



Dave at the far left, traversing left



Dave leads a steep snow slope



I follow (photo by Dave)



My turn to lead (photo by Dave)



Back on easy terrain again (photo by Dave)



But not for long. The limestone rock band is dead head and on most mountains in the area presents a real challenge.



Dave sizes up the rock band



And then we traverse left!



Looking up the route Mark and I took in 2007



Dave attacks another steep snow slope. Good thing we brought crampons and ice axes.



Almost at the top



I get to benefit from the steps Dave has kicked



Still looking for a weakness in the limestone band



Water was pouring down much of the rock



Still traversing - at this rate we'll be in danger of summiting Glendowan (left) first!



Dave looks at another potential route. Glad he didn't go all the way because a much easier one was waiting right around the corner



And there it is



Up he goes



Admiring the Master from below! (photo by Dave)



My turn (photo by Dave)



Some really cool rock folding







Scampering up to the next challenge (photo by Dave)



Traversing to the right!!! What's going on??



Dave conjectured we could break through the rock band just past the snow (photo by Dave)



Check out the skull looking down on Dave and the monkey in profile. Dave's take: "Kong: Skull Island"!



Once again happy to have crampons and an ice axe to traverse this slope



Dave's conjecture turns out to be correct. Only a couple of moves of easy scrambling to get onto easier terrain (photo by Dave).



Interesting terrain ahead




Dave leads the way up scree and step-like terrain



Lots of cool rock to see on the way



At this point I veered off to the left then went up, along side a small rock wall. It looks  steep, but is very steppy.



Dave continued going up to the right



The lichen-covered and colourful rock is what caught my attention (hardly shocking!)



The zoom on Dave's phone camera is amazing. We were at least 200 m apart at this point (photo by Dave).



Approaching the rock I veered off to see



There it is



Lichen eyebrows



Another cool view



Spotting Dave on the skyline



Dave's view of me (look for the yellow jacket) and Glendowan (photo by Dave)



Almost at the ridge



Dave's view upon reaching the ridge (photo by Dave)



My view upon reaching the ridge



Slowly catching up to Dave



Reunited. The ridgewalk and summit of Cloudowan at the right (photo by Dave)



Embarking on the fun and interesting ridgewalk (photo by Dave)



Lots of bypassing pinnacles on the ridge



Bypassed this one on the left (photo by Dave)



Dave captures a terrific photo on the bypass (photo by Dave)



Not sure what side we took here



Back on the ridge and enjoying pleasant scrambling in fantastic surroundings



Gratuitous lichen shot



Dave scrambles back up to the ridge



Some stemming required (photo by Dave)



Always a treat to see Blakiston framed between two huge chunks of red argillite!



Dave closes in on the summit block



And the great weather is still holding (photo by Dave)



Mount Roche (left) and Mount Yarrow (photo by Dave)



The summit block



Traversing around the left side to find the ascent gully



Still traversing. These snow slopes deserved respect.



Once again, Dave leads the way



And I follow (photo by Dave)



At the east end of the summit block. The pinnacled ridge continues east to a lower summit that I'd love to attempt one day from the Yarrow Creek side.



Left to right: Cloudowan's east ridge, Cloudy Ridge Junior, Cloudy Ridge, Dungarvan, and Dundy



Dave attempts a very steep route on the east end



As always I'm distracted by lichen!



We took a short break here to contemplate our options. Decided to call it a day.......


  
.....or not. In a last ditch effort, Dave starts up the very challenging second gully (left photo), and gets about two-thirds of the way up (right photo).



After deciding the wet terrain was too risky, Dave carefully downclimbs



Victoria Peak



Dave leads the first and correct gully



Dave's to the east view from the summit (photo by Dave)



Diminutive Mount Crandell has many routes up (photo by Dave)



So does Loaf Mountain (photo by Dave)



Bakery Peak (getting Sun) is the east end of Loaf and has an awesome scramble route (photo by Dave)



My view of Dave....



.....his view of me (photo by Dave)



View to the east



View to the north. The clouds are rolling in so it's time for us to roll out.



Insanely contrived pose! (photo by Dave)



Dave carefully downclimbs the gully



I do too (photo by Dave)



Back on the summit ridge (photo by Dave)



Dave at the location of the great photo



Searching out good scree slopes made easy work of the descent (photo by Dave)



Still a few steps of scrambling required, but nothing too challenging



And one careful step across a small waterfall



The only downside of our descent route was a fair amount of traversing (left to the left, given that we are now going in the opposite direction!) (photo by Dave)



The noticeable patch of red argillite kept drawing my attention. It would be accessible by following Red Rock Canyon - future trip!



Yep....still staring at it! (photo by Dave)



Descending the snow was super easy and fun (photo by Dave)



Ominous clouds ahead



Back at the end of the ridge, checking out a random rock and the view of Cloudowan, Cloudy, and Dundy



No more blue skies, but Anderson still looks good



Dundy Junior



Following a small but scenic stream down



Same as above with Crandell



Dave is almost back to the trail and we seem to have escaped the predicted rain



Back on the Snowshoe trail (photo by Dave)

The End

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