Iceberg Peak



South Iceberg Peak








September 16, 2023
 
Mountain heights:          2788 m, 2694 m
Total elevation gain:       approximately 1700 m
Ascent time:                  5:45
Traverse time to South: 1:25
Descent time:                4:25
 
Scrambling with Raff. 
 
There are outstanding summit panoramas and then there are OUTSTANDING SUMMIT PANORAMAS!! The view from Iceberg Peak definitely belongs in the latter category.
 
Mark and I had attempted Iceberg Peak in 2014 via the famous Iceberg Notch route. After gaining the notch we bailed on the summit attempt due to poor weather and instead went to nearby Ahern Peak – in retrospect a very good decision. That route starts at Many Glaciers and approaches the summit of Iceberg from the east and the north. A less technical route from the St. Mary’s side, approaching the summit from the south and west, is well described by both J. Gordon Edwards and Blake Passmore and that is the one Raff and I chose.
 
To bypass the crux of the trip – finding a parking spot along the Going-To-The-Sun Road – we camped the night before at the St. Mary’s KOA. Even so, at 7 am we snagged one of the last remaining spots at The Loop trailhead. Although this starting point adds 700 m of elevation gain to the trip, as opposed to the Logan Pass trailhead, it also reduces the total horizontal distance by 11.6 km. We figured that waning energy levels at the end of the trip would favour an all-downhill return from the common point shared by both routes, instead of a long up and down traverse back to Logan Pass.
 
The extra 700 m of elevation was gained easily on the gently graded Granite Park Trail. Turning onto the Highline Trail we then hiked several kilometres across the west side of the huge and seriously impressive massif that joins Swiftcurrent Pass to Ptarmigan tunnel. This wall of rock (The Ptarmigan Wall at the north) is basically a continuation of The (razor-thin) Garden Wall and boasts some of the most awe-inspiring rock scenery you may ever see.
 
Views throughout the approach were quite unique. Much of the northwest section of the park was visible, but separated from our present position by a huge, green valley. We could also see well into Waterton, mounts Blakiston, Rowe, and even Festubert immediately catching our eyes. It was really neat to see the southeast sides of mounts Kintla and Kinnerly, two peaks that I often fawn over from the northeast on the Canadian side of the border.
 
The only section of concern during the approach was going to be the infamous Ahern Drift – a north-facing section of the trail that is often covered in a steep, icy layer of snow and notorious for stopping hikers without crampons and an ice axe dead in their tracks. To our utter surprise there was not a flake of snow on the trail where the drift usually resides. This was great news for the day, but like the relatively recent appearance of a huge lake north of Northpost Spire, another reminder that permanent snow and glaciers in this part of the world are disappearing at an alarming rate. Apparently, the park had blasted a path through the drift earlier in the summer, but we were at minimum expecting to see some debris from the blast.    
 
Soon after passing the non-existent Drift, we started up the southwest slopes of Iceberg Peak. While generally straightforward, the ascent was noticeably lacking in the aesthetic qualities of the Iceberg Notch route. There were definitely some interesting sections, just few and far between. Having said that, the west route is a great way to ascend Iceberg without venturing into 4th and 5th class terrain.   

Up to that point the views had been great but were about to get crazy! Waiting for us patiently at the ridge was an outrageously cool view of Mount Wilbur’s northwest face and Iceberg Peak’s southeast face with Iceberg Lake between them. And that was but a small taste! 

The panorama waiting at the summit was simply incomparable! Under clear skies, a sea of striking peaks in a multitude of different colours, and several stunning lakes conspired to render the view one of the finest I’ve ever seen. A rousing round of “oohs”, “aahs”, and “Holy mackerels” ensued ("mackerel" is the PG version!). I could say there was a "plethora" of excited utterances but there were exactly as many as required – “neither more, nor less” (two of my favourite movies ever). 
 
Soon after we arrived, two trail runners joined us at the top, both also blown away by the view. They had come up from the Many Glaciers side via Swiftcurrent Pass, in a remarkable time of 5.25 hours. Like Grinnell, a few weeks earlier, we shared our ascent stories and recommended descent routes. After they left, we stayed at the top an additional 30 minutes before deciding we wanted more. South Iceberg Peak was only about 0.5 km away and was also advertised to have an amazing view. 
 
Getting over to South required far more time, effort, and route-finding than expected, until we realized we had gone over the summit and then to the next highpoint. The views from that highpoint were great, but definitely inferior to those from Iceberg. South Iceberg had the second-best views of the day. Again, Mount Wilbur provided most of the visual entertainment, its west side equally impressive as the north, east, and south – Wilbur really is a mountain of a near perfect aesthetic beauty.
 
Although an alternate descent route from the next highpoint (GR966090) appeared to be feasible, the path over there didn’t look like a pushover. We decided to play it safe and return the same way we came up. Back on the main trail, a long and somewhat foot-numbing hike out ensued, tempered greatly by the wonderful scenery on the west side of the massif, now illuminated by the Sun’s rays. (Almost) sheer relief hit when we reached the aforementioned key junction. Had we picked the Logan Pass route, we would have been confronted with 12.2 km of up and down hiking to finish the trip. Instead, only 6.4 km of all downhill hiking was required. The remainder of relief set in as we arrived back at The Loop trailhead, just as darkness fell.
 
An incredible day of jaw-dropping views and mountain scenery. A return trip to this amazing viewpoint is already in the works for next year. This time (hopefully with the old bro’) we would ascend via the Iceberg Notch, go up and over Iceberg and South Iceberg, and return via Swiftcurrent Pass, with the possibility of also throwing in Swiftcurrent Mountain – guaranteed to be the trip of a lifetime! 


Raff on the Granite Park Trail



Heavens Peak looks like a very cool ascent



The Sun is about to break the horizon, but we would do most of the ascent in shade



There's the Sun and Raff



Just past the Granite Park campground sit the remnants of something



On the Highline Trail and ready to traverse a big distance across the west sides of Swiftcurrent Mountain and Iceberg Peak



One of the few times we were hiking in the Sun



First look at the Iceberg Peak

And also of Ahern Peak

A better view of Iceberg, as we approach the Ahern Drift

Except there is no Drift



An easy hike down the snow-less path (photo by Raff)

The path around the cliffband at the left is an amazing example of a goat trail turned into a human trail (or maybe humans just made it!)



Raff on the lower slopes of Iceberg



Approaching the rock bands that make up the middle section of the ascent



The scree and rubble give way to solid rock



Working our way up through the cool rock (photo by Raff)

The next section provided a good route-finding challenge



Hit a dead end here (photo by Raff)



Raff led the way, finding good scramble routes up each rock band



He's up one
And another

Almost at the ridge



Great views to the west

Stunning view of Mount Wilbur upon reaching the ridge

Add Iceberg Peak (left) and Iceberg Lake

The distinctive B-7 Pillar north of Iceberg

Close-up



Too bad some of the lake is in shade



The impressive summit block of Iceberg. Raff at the left to give it some scale.



Catching up with Raff (photo by Raff)



The route up is straightforward



And has some great red argillite!



The view upon reaching the ridge. Helen Lake is stunning.



Raff is already at the top



Raff's view of me making the final ascent steps (photo by Raff)



Raff and Helen Lake



Raff, Iceberg Lake, and mountains of the Many Glaciers area



The view to the south



Our two fellow scramblers join us at the top



Mount Cleveland behind Ipasha



Mount Merrit



Everyone is enjoying this summit (photo by Raff)



The variety of colours is staggering



View to the north



There are many beautiful peaks to the northwest, but I don't know many of them

Same as above

I think that's Cathedral Peak



Back to the unreal view to the east. Raff at the summit and one of the other scramblers near the right



Our fellow scrambler has found a neat little perch



Same view without humans



One of our fellow scramblers was gracious enough to take a summit photo of me and Raff (photo by nice guy)



Mount Grinnell in the centre - a super worthwhile objective



Same as above with Wilbur



Managed to get a pano with both Helen Lake and Iceberg Lake



The two nice guys start their descent (photo by Raff)



Closer look at the reds and yellows to the northeast



Chief Mountain and Seward Mountain (the red one)



Apikuni (left) and Henkel



Siyeh (centre) and Cracker (left)



Wilbur and Iceberg Lake are going to get lots more love



Raff's turn on the perch



View south towards South Iceberg Peak and Swiftcurrent Mountain



The Ahern Glacier below Ipasha Peak



One more summit pano with Raff



The Ptarmigan Wall is stunning and scary as h#$@ looking!



Last look north before we head south to South Iceberg



Heading down (photo by Raff)



Took any chance we could get to see the lake while traversing to South



Same as above



Wilbur and South Iceberg



Super easy travel to South Iceberg (photo by Raff)



Iceberg's southeast face is almost vertical



At the summit of South Iceberg, although we didn't know it at the time (photo by Raff)



South Iceberg Peak pano



Raff at the top



Continuing along the ridge towards the next summit. Iceberg and South Iceberg are visible here.



  Many more panos to come



And a few more views of the lakes below. They disappeared from view shortly after leaving South Iceberg (photo by Raff).



Another highpoint and Wilbur



Same as above



Atop that one (photo by Raff)



And another (photo by Raff)



Just when you thought Wilbur couldn't be more impressive, you see the mountain's west side



Same as above



No more Iceberg Lake, but at least distant Bullhead Lake, below Mount Grinnell, is visible



The peak ahead is the one we thought was South Iceberg



Getting over to it required lots of route-finding and traversing below the ridge (photo by Raff)



At least Wilbur is keeping us entertained



As is the view to the southeast



On the ridge



...below the ridge



Looking up at the heavily pinnacled ridge



Scrambling back up to the ridge (photo by Raff)



And finally back on the ridge to complete the ascent



The last section still requires some judicious route-finding



At the summit of our last highpoint of the day (photo by Raff)



Terrific view to the south



Close-ups of Bullhead Lake (top) and Windmaker Lake (photo by Raff)

We couldn't see an obvious route up the rock band that guards the summit of the next highpoint



Looking back to South Iceberg and Iceberg



Pano from the highpoint


Close-up of you know who



Apikuni and Henkel again, but the small section of Wilbur's west ridge in front is even more fascinating



  One of Raff's many classic summit poses!



Cracker (left), Siyeh (centre), and Grinnell (foreground right)



Ipasha, Merrit, and Natoas Peak



Swiftcurrent Mountain



Time to go home



Back below the ridge (photo by Raff)



Descending that step (photo by Raff)



Some back and forth to get lower (photo by Raff)



Instead of the "yo-yo" ups and downs, we decided to traverse more directly to the descent line



No trip is complete without a lichen photo



Nice, big ledge to traverse



And then some more challenging terrain



Raff in the middle of the diorite band



Back onto the scree slopes (photo by Raff)



Looking back to the diorite (photo by Raff)



A few water-worn gullies helped on descent (photo by Raff)



Back on the trail where the Ahern Drift should be (photo by Raff)



Raff on the cool trail that wraps around the cliff-face and our last look at Iceberg Peak and the route up



Ahern Peak again



Wonderful fall colours are going to be the theme of the hike back to the start



Same as above



Raff gingerly hikes the Highline Trail



Back to the fall colours



Of course, red argillite adds colour to any scene!



As does the burgundy/red foliage




It's a long hike back!



And the Sun is sinking



Cool rock scenery abounds



Same as above



Raff again is the star of the trail!



Stopping once in a while to take in the views (photo by Raff)



The Granite Park Chalet is dwarfed by Mount Gould and sections of The Garden Wall



Pano



Argillite and the foliage aren't the only red things to see



So many wonderful scenes as the days winds to its end



Downhill and colourful - not a bad way to finish a long day (photo by Raff)



Another cool scene



Hello deer..... (photo by Raff)



.....bye-bye Sun

The End

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