Mount Grinnell 







 
September 2, 2023
 
Mountain height: 2692 m
Elevation gain:    1197 m
Ascent time:        5:30
Descent time:      4:20
 
Scrambling with Mark.
 
Unbelievably awesome trip, where making the summit was merely the “icing on the cake”.    
 
Earlier in the week I returned to Glacier National Park, after a 4-year absence. Of course, that mind-blowing single visit (and another the day after) was more than enough for me to want more – much more! As such, even though Mark had only a single day to do a trip, we left Calgary at 4 am, in order to maximize our time across the border and ensure we would make it back into Canada before the border closed.
 
En route, we decided that Grinnell Mountain, via its south face would be the day’s objective. Raff and I had set out to summit Grinnell in September of 2019. However, foul weather had redirected us to the summit of nearby and much lower Angel Wing. Also, I had fortuitously downloaded a GPS track from Sonny’s website to help with the route-finding.    
 
By 7:50 am we were at the Grinnell Glacier trailhead (along with a hundred or so other people) and ready to rock! Surprisingly the trail was closed for maintenance. I had hiked it only four days earlier on an aborted attempt of Grinnell Point. This turn of events required about 30 minutes of extra hiking around the north and east sides of Swiftcurrent Lake, but at least the detour afforded us the classic view of the lake and surrounding mountains from near the Many Glaciers Hotel.
 
Eventually, we did hit the Grinnell Glacier trail and started up – and more enthralling it could not have been! This was my second time on the trail and very much reinforced the sentiment that this trail is one of the most enjoyable hikes in all of GNP, Waterton, The Castle, Kananaskis, Banff, and Jasper. The route is essentially a goat trail that gently and magically ascends terrain on the south flank of Grinnell. The scenic treasures along the trail are too numerous to discuss in detail (see photos).
 
Even though the trail goes past the start of the ascent route to Grinnell, you cannot hike that trail without visiting Upper Grinnell Lake first. Backdropped by the near vertical north face of Mount Gould with the Grinnell Glacier below, this is a jaw-dropping place of rare beauty. The aforementioned one hundred or so other people were already there when we arrived, enjoying the sublime scenery.
 
After an all too short break at the lake we backtracked a little and then embarked on a long, slightly ascending traverse across the south face of Grinnell. While the terrain underfoot was considerably better than your average traverse in Kananaskis, it was still a gruelling and less than aesthetic affair. That changed dramatically when we reached a significant water-worn gully. Going up the gully would put us slightly off-route, but we couldn’t resist.
 
Eureka!! This was possibly the best gully we ever been up – solid, step-like rock, with a positive slope, that was super fun to scramble up – and it went on forever! The route very much reminded us of the moderate scramble route up Anderson Peak in Waterton. And to top it all off – the diorite sill; a band of igneous rock that is both beautiful and super solid (the GNP equivalent of granite, or quartzite). We last climbed a section of this amazing rock while ascending nearby Mount Wilbur, in 2009.

 
Above the diorite, a short slog brought us to another famous layer of rock (actually more infamous!). The grey limestone band is a staple of all many peaks in GNP, Waterton, and The Castle. Getting above the band is usually the crux of those ascents. Thankfully, we only had to traverse a short distance to get above it and onto the final ascent slope. This slope was much steeper, but some zigging and zagging made easy work of it.  
 
Gaining the ridge of any mountain usually means a whole new view and Mount Grinnell was no exception. Having spent the entire trip marvelling at the wonders of the Grinnell valley, in an instant the entire Swiftcurrent valley was unveiled. And that valley certainly ain’t no slouch either! In addition to the beautiful forms of Mount Wilbur, Swiftcurrent, Henkel, Allen, and many other, seven lakes were now visible – stunning!
 
The summit was a short distance away and likewise boasted an awe-inspiring panorama. It also was soon to boast two other visitors. Like the Canadian Rockies, GNP has seen a dramatic increase in the number of hikers on the trails, but when the trail ends so do the people – also like Canada. This would be only the third time in GNP where we would share the summit with others. The two gentlemen had ascended via the Grinnell Glacier Overlook. Tanner and his partner were super friendly, and we quickly shared our ascent stories, before ducking below the ridge to escape the wind.
 
At this point, we need to heartily thank Sonny and Zosia for their trip report and Sonny’s GPS track. We are not sure where Sonny got the idea to descend into the Swiftcurrent valley, but it was a bold stroke of genius! From above, the route appeared to end where a huge cliff interrupted the descent. However, unseen there existed a steep but easy route all the way down to the valley and the amazing Swiftcurrent Pass Trail. Using Sonny’s descent route, afforded us an up-close visit to the Swiftcurrent Glacier, a whackload of new and interesting scenery, and an easy walk out back to Many Glaciers. As the final bonus of the day, the trail ended right in front of the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn General Store, that, of course, has ice cream!
 
Definitely, one of the best routes and most memorable days we’ve had in the mountains south or north of the border. Thank you, Sonny, and thank you Glacier National Park, Montana!
 

The classic view of Grinnell Point from near the Many Glaciers Hotel



Same as above. Mount Gould to the left of the Point and Wilbur to the right.



Mount Henkel at the left. To this day, one of my favourite scrambles ever!



A small pond, Lake Josephine, and Mount Gould



Here we go! Highlights of the fantastically awesome Grinnell Glacier Trail.



Naturally, there is red argillite to boot!



Then you throw in Mount Gould and Lower Grinnell Lake



A few big trees and berries



Note the trail snaking its way around the mountain



Note the beautiful lichen-covered rock



First glimpse of Mount Grinnell at the right



Grinnell and argillite



One of the few switchbacks of the trail. 99% of it goes right alongside the mountain face - mountain goats are very efficient trail builders!



Grinnell and some very brightly coloured argillite



One of several drainages on the south face



We considered leaving the trail here to attempt a more direct route to the ascent line. But then we would have missed.....



...this! One of the coolest sections of the trail features a dripping wall above a staircase of green argillite.



A better view



Mark comes up the staircase



Back to my red argillite obsession



Ditto



Awesome bands of rock above the trail at every turn



Allen Mountain towers above Lower Grinnell Lake



Looking back at the train of other hikers on the trail



But the rock is way more fascinating



The narrow ridge on either side of Mount Gould is called the Garden Wall and its super cool!



Back to the cool rock on Grinnell



Same as above



Josephine Lake is now visible too



Upper Grinnell Lake. Looks great from here....



...but looks incredible closer to the shore




Ponds around the lake and Mount Grinnell



Lots of people enjoying the surroundings



A rare shot without other people



Off the trail and all the people are gone



Same as above, looking the other way



Mount Grinnell's magnificent south side. The ascent route goes all the way to the right side and then up.



Of course, I'm still fixated on the Upper Lake environs



Pleasant stroll across a meadow before the real work begins



The real work



Steep rock bands prevent a direct route to the summit ridge



Found a water source to refill our water packs



Angel Wing is the big, but low peak just left of centre. It's a totally worthwhile ascent.



Diorite alert!



Earth's rotation and the Sun shining on them cause Josephine and Lower Grinnell lakes to take on more vibrant hues



Still traversing



Mark has spotted something



It's a very inviting water-worn gully



Up we go



But the views over to Gould, the lake, the glacier, and The Garden Wall are still commanding attention



Mark ascends a step



The solid step-like rock was a dream to ascend



As good as the rock was, we couldn't ignore these views



Still on the staircase, but it's coming to an end



Approaching the diorite sill



Getting excited to make contact with the rock!



Sweet diorite



Starting up the solid rock



Halfway up



Mark tackles the diorite



All too soon it's over, but a great view awaits at the top



Approaching the limestone band



Mark does the same



The band is too steep here but peters out to the east



Mark walks below the band



First good of Mount Henkel from up high



Some of the zigzagging and the amazing view over the Grinnell valley



Almost at the ridge



On the ridge and taking in the first views of the Swiftcurrent valley



Same as above. Seven lakes are now visible.



Below Mount Wilbur sit Bullhead Lake (light turquoise) and Widowmaker Lake (the darker lake above)



Redrock Lake sits under Bullhead Point



At the summit



The light coloured peak near the right is Swiftcurrent Mountain



Magnificent Mount Wilbur



A sea of peaks to the northwest



The summit cairn and Henkel. Chief Mountain at the distant left and slithers of Yellow Mountain behind Henkel.



View to the east, southeast, and south



View to the north, northeast, and east



Another great view (minus the dude in yellow)



Three lakes (Sherburne, Josephine, and Lower Grinnell) and Allen Mountain



Starting down Sonny's alternate descent route



Looking back to the summit and other cool things



No summit, just other cool things



Mark descends the easy southwest ridge







The view towards Upper Grinnell Lake and company is inescapable



The terrain gets more complex but is still an easy ride down



One last look at that inescapable view



Pano without the lake



The minor summit at the left looks super dramatic as we lose elevation. You can get the top of it from the west side.



Looking down the improbable descent route: right down the middle. We visited the Swiftcurrent Glacier at the left first.




Approaching the glacier



The rubble and scree change to slabs



No matter how small they are, it's always so fascinating to be close to any glacier



Mark explores the massive snow boulders



His view



His view of me



Leaving the glacier



At this point, the descent still appeared to end abruptly at the edge of a cliff



At least views of Mount Wilbur were tantalizing



Swiftcurrent Mountain looks bigger than Wilbur from this angle but its not



Magic! As stated, Sonny's route was a bold stroke of genius. This was the only challenge of the route and even it was quite easy.



A very cool coloured rock that reminded me a little of the Star Trek communicator badge!



Looking over to the cliff that we thought would prevent this descent route from working



Mark descends easier terrain



Bullhead Lake appears



Took a short detour to check out some of the waterfalls pouring down the headwall



Looking back at the descent route and the waterfalls



At the creek that eventually intercepts the Swiftcurrent Pass Trail



Bullhead Lake and Grinnell



Nice bridge



Bullhead Point



Small waterfall



Mark takes a final and satisfying look at Mount Grinnell

The End

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