Ivory Tower
October 18, 2025
Mountain height: 2610 m
Total elevation gain: approximately
1300 m
Ascent time: 6:05
Descent time: 4:00
Scrambling with
Raff.
I had been dreaming
of a larch season ascent of Ivory Tower ever since completing a traverse of
Bell Ridge in 2024. The area below the Tower is not only teeming with larches,
but also home to several beautiful tarns and tons of awe-inspiring
scenery. Although a serious 5.8 climbing route up the east ridge of The Tower
exists (one that is far beyond my level of climbing and comfort these days), 
I
had spotted what appeared to be a very straightforward line up the west
side. Reading David Jones' recommended descent route confirmed its
feasibility as a scramble.
Unfortunately, foreseen
and then unforeseen circumstances would keep me away from the mountains for a
large part of September and early October. The 18th of October would
be my first chance to get out in several weeks. Desperate to just get some
exercise, I decided to make an attempt of Ivory Tower on what was forecast to
be a sunny day; no yellow larches, but I hoped the terrific scenery below blue
skies would be enough to satiate both me and my partner for the day – the
unstoppable Raffinator!
The day started
with the outrageously boring hike to Taylor Lake. The sign says 6.3 km, but it
always feels like 63 km! 
A 1.8 km hike to O’Brien Lake followed. En route I
couldn’t help but think why we didn’t start the trip from the Boom Lake
trailhead. The overall distance would be a little longer, however, the Boom
Lake trailhead is about 240 metres higher than the Taylor Lake trailhead. When
I do repeat this trip (and only death will keep me from a second ascent!) I
will start from Boom.
We arrived at
O’Brien Lake to completely overcast skies. This was a very disappointing turn
of events, nullifying the primary motivation for the trip. However, the
secondary reason – some much-needed exercise – was enough to motivate us to push
on towards the tarns above O’Brien Lake.
Crossing
O'Brien Lake’s outlet did not provide a challenge; nor did ascending the steep
forested slopes to the first tarn. However, things were about to change. 
A
decent layer of snow plastered the upper valley, much of which is covered in
large boulders. Negotiating the boulder fields did prove to be a challenge. And it
certainly didn’t help that I chose a terrible line to gain the base of Ivory’s
ascent slopes.
Clambering over
the huge boulders was an unpleasant experience, the snow often hiding big holes
between the rocks and adding an unwanted degree of slickness to the terrain. My
microspikes helped but Raff had to be extra careful, having left his at home.
To add to our frustration, the weather continued to worsen as we approached the
main ascent slope. It appeared we would be reaching the summit in a complete
whiteout with no view to speak of. We discussed options. I told Raff that
I was already planning to return on a better weather day, so I didn’t care if
we made the summit. Eventually we decided we were so close, it would be a shame
not to finish the job.
The ascent
amounted to a steep but straightforward slog up snow-covered rubble and scree.
The clouds did lift a little, granting us better views than we expected 30
minutes before. However, they were not even close to their potential, had clear
skies prevailed.
On descent, we
were able to avoid most of the boulders, following the route I took down in
2024. The terrain to O’Brien Lake was unexpectedly pleasant, but of course the
hike from O’Brien to the parking lot, expectedly mind-numbing – the 6.3 km
honestly felt like 630 km this time!
Great trip, great
company, terrible weather – I’ll be back!
Taylor Lake. Unfortunately this was the best weather of the day.
Raff crosses the Taylor Lake outlet
First good look at Ivory Tower. The 5.8 climbing route goes up the left skyline (photo by Raff).
At the shores of O'Brien Lake. Mount Bell in the background.
Bell and the lake outlet
Crossing the outlet was very easy, given the low water level at this time of the year (photo by Raff)
Shockingly there's a larch trying to stay yellow into late October! Ivory Tower behind (photo by Raff).
The first tarn above O'Brien Lake
The second
Raff passes by the second
Approaching the third (photo by Raff)
The third
Ivory Tower at the left and parts of Bell Ridge at the right
Another yellow larch!
Choosing a bad line up the boulder field. I led us right, when we should have gone left.
Tedious and cautious travel through the field (photo by Raff)
Raff follows
Blustery weather
On the main ascent slope. It's steeper than it looks (photo by Raff).
Better representation of the grade (photo by Raff)
Raff took a direct line to the summit
The Sun makes a partial appearance between peaks of Bell Ridge
Raff is heading for the summit, I'm heading for the ridge
On the ridge looking down on Nolan Lake
Raff is way ahead now
It's an easy ridgewalk for me
One of the multiple highpoints of Bell Ridge
Another behind me
Lots of lichen-covered quartzite on the ridge
The highpoint above Nolan Lake
Zoomed-in shot of Raff's final few hundred metres
Looking down the near vertical southeast side of Ivory
Raff at the summit and those vertical walls
I've finally caught up to Raff at the summit (photo by Raff)
Happy to reach the top; not happy about the weather (photo by Raff)
The clouds did lift enough to see the mountains to the south, but still not even close to what we were hoping for
The north side of Mount Whymper
Interesting summit cairn
Peaks to the southeast
Peaks to the south
Bell Ridge and Bell Mountain (right)
Raff and the lengthy Castle Mountain massif
Raff does a cool balancing act with his stormtropper (photo by Raff)
Cool for Raff, but not the stormtropper - that's gotta' hurt, regardless of how much armor you are wearing! (photo by Raff)
Back down at the base of the ascent slopes and trying to find something to take solace in
This partially oxidized, white quartzite will do the trick
Same as above
Contemplating the nasty traverse back across the boulders (photo by Raff)
Used this steep, but safer route instead to avoid the nastiness (photo by Raff)
Orange lichen sighting
The impressive walls of Mount Bell's east face
There's that lichen
We found easier routes around the tarns too (photo by Raff)
Looking back to Ivory
Another rock distraction
Very interesting horizontal lines across the tilted rock
The second tarn and Castle
Going around the first tarn (photo by Raff)
Raff and the first
A parting look at Ivory Tower - until we meet again!
The End
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