Rogan Peak IV


 
March 6, 2021
 
Mountain height: 2442 m
Elevation gain:    1479 m
Round-trip time:  9:25
 
Scrambling and a little mountaineering with Dave and Brad.  
 
Like my 10-year-old nephew, whom I unofficially named the peak after, 10 years ago, “Rogan Peak” continues to throw surprises at me.
 
Looking for a feasible objective, when Dave threw out of idea of “Rogan Peak”, (other names being “Dunwey Peak”, “The Horn”, and “Dungarvan SE2”), I was excited to make a fourth run at the peak. My three other trips to the summit had all been wonderfully unique and all from different directions (I, II, III) – I had high hopes that IV would provide another unique experience.
 
Initially, we had planned on doing the “normal” ascent route, via the Horseshoe Basin trail and Lakeview/Rogan col. However, a game-time decision was made upon reaching a particularly fetching snow gully/drainage running down the east side of the mountain. The gully would provide the most direct route to the summit and snow conditions seemed to be perfect for an attempt.
 
In fact, snow conditions could not have been better, and we enjoyed easy travel up the first part of the drainage. We soon arrived at a point where a smaller drainage ran into the main one. The smaller was lined with red argillite and so, of course, I was compelled to check it out. Dave and Brad, already quite acclimatized to my argillite obsession, could only chuckle as I raced off, agreeing to catch up with them or meet them higher up.
 
While I was salivating all over the colourful rock in the minor drainage, Dave and Brad were thoroughly enjoying an aesthetic, mountaineering ascent up the main gully. The snow was perfect for crampons and the blue sky and pristine scenery perfect for photos. It was some time and a significant vertical distance before we reconnected and exchanged ascent stories. I think all three of us wished we could have experienced both ascent routes!
 
The crux of the route followed – ascending a very steep snow slope and then getting past a fairly big cornice lining the ridge. Dave took the seemingly most straightforward route over to the left and Brad took a slightly steeper one straight up (I was lagging behind, putting on my crampons). Turns out Brad’s route was much easier (though still very steep) and with some solid ice axe work, he was on a summit ridge in no time. I followed, glad to use the bucket steps he made. Dave’s route suddenly looked very scary and even more precarious, and he wisely opted to traverse over to Brad’s route – a significant challenge in itself.
 
Once on the ridge, the summit seemed close and up we started. But not before getting over the shock of witnessing a rapid and complete breakdown in the weather. From sunny, blue skies one minute to a total whiteout and blowing snow the next. We slowly ascended the foreshortened ridge, taking much longer than expected and still a little baffled by the crazy weather. Thankfully, the clouds did lift enough once we arrived at the summit to grant some pretty awesome views.


 
Having deviated from the original ascent route, we decided to use it for descent – longer and more circuitous, but straightforward and, of course, scenic. Approaching the Rogan/Lakeview Ridge col, Brad decided he would take a run up Lakeview. Initially, both Dave and I had planned to join him, but exhaustion was creeping in on us both and we opted to wait for Brad at the col. In a “tour de force” performance, Brad did the ascent and descent in a mere 25 minutes – very impressive!
 
We then started down the almost comically big switchbacks that take you from the col down to the valley below. Dave conjectured their severe magnitude was probably to accommodate travel on horse – makes sense. The remainder of the descent went smoothly and once again reminded me what a beautiful and remote-feeling valley it is.
 
Another fantastic day and two sweet routes up an old friend. And no way better way to enjoy it than with two great friends!    

Click HERE to see Dave's report.


Brad and I reach the second key intersection. Bellevue Hill stretched out in front (photo by Dave).



Into the beautiful Bellevue Hill, Rogan Peak, Lakeview Ridge valley. Rogan dominates the scene (photo by Dave).



Where the game-time decision was made to head more directly to the summit (photo by Dave)



My usual intimate moment with the cool rock of The Caste/Waterton (photo by Dave)



Easy travel in the terrific, snow-filled gully (photo by Dave)



The colourful rock is starting to appear



The gully winds its way uphill



Brad and Dave reach the intersection where we parted ways. They went  left...



... I went right (photo by Dave)



Argillite in sight



There is it



Meanwhile, Brad leads the way up the adjacent gully (photo by Dave)



Back to my gully







Back to Brad and Dave's gully (photo by Dave)



Above the red argillite, there's a band of igneous rock



Fossilized plants in the rock



It's ice axe and crampon time for Brad and Dave (photo by Dave)



It's more red argillite time for me



And then some equally cool dolostone







The summit appears at the left



Looking down the gully I'm in



Looking down the gully Brad and Dave are in (photo by Dave)



There's the summit. It looks way closer than it really is.



Perhaps the coolest rock I saw all day - and it's not even red argillite!!!



Brad and the summit block of Rogan (photo by Dave)



Reunited. I traversed over to the gully Brad and Dave were ascending.



Waiting at the right for the boys (photo by Dave)



Here they come



Happy to pull up the rear at this point (photo by Dave)



And follow the boys up the perfect snow...



....in near perfect weather (photo by Dave)



Dave (barely visible on the snow patch) kept his crampons on and is finding his way up, staying on the snow



Brad took his off and is sticking to the scree and rubble



Brad eyes up the final stretch to the summit ridge (photo by Dave)



This is definitely crampons and ice axe terrain



Dave's views of Brad tackling the short but steep section of snow (photo by Dave)



Close-up of Brad



Dave's perspective again (photo by Dave)



My view of the two



Brad just has to get over the cornice now



What's going on with the weather???



Dave's route suddenly looks a little dicey (actually a lot!). Note the steepness of the terrain here. Dave had to downclimb and then traverse over to us.



Mount Dungavan is barely visible - BOOO!



Dave is pretty happy, having traversed the steep terrain and is ready to climb over the cornice. Brad graciously left his ice axe in place for a self-belay.



The start of a foreshortened slog to the top (photo by Dave)



Visibility reaches a new low



But we're not about to stop now! (photo by Dave)



Brad reaches the summit and Dave is close behind



Thankfully the clouds lifted enough to reveal the wonderful connecting ridge between Mount Galwey and Rogan Peak



Summit view to the west



Heading to the lower highpoint to the west (photo by Dave)



The usual lichen on rock



At the minor highpoint (photo by Dave)



Anderson Peak (awesome moderate scramble) is trying to emerge from the clouds



There's Dungarvan - brings back great memories of a fantastic traverse from Galwey to Dungarvan with my good friend, Kevin Barton.



Dave and Brad join me on the highpoint



Heading back to the summit, but still impressed by the northeast side of the connecting ridge



Brad (photo by Dave)



Dave



Me (photo by Dave)



Last look before we leave



Heading down (photo by Dave)



There were a few clear breaks in the weather on descent



Easy travel, but the north ridge of Rogan is surprisingly long (photo by Dave)



Dave climbs down a small step



More ridgewalking



Looking back (photo by Dave)



The north ridge of Rogan terminates at the low summit near the right. Throughout the trip we were all eyeing it up for a future trip.



The ridge goes on and on, but it's a fun and scenic ridge



Mounts Yarrow and Roche (Spread Eagle Mountain)



Still descending!



The Rogan/Lakeview col is finally within reach



Dave atop the last obstacle



And more scenic hiking (photo by Dave)



Lakeview Ridge is dead ahead



Brad at the summit



And he's back already. 25 minutes round-trip is super fast! (photo by Dave)



Time to go (photo by Dave)



Looking up the route(s) we took up Rogan - up the main gully (Dave and Brad) and then off to the right one. My route is off to the right (photo by Dave).



Bellevue Hill, directly ahead, has endless routes to its summit - I, II, III, VII, VIII ((photo by Dave)



Beautiful blue sky again, clouds and the fire-ravaged trees



All the main highpoints of the Lakeview Ridge Horseshoe route



Dave enjoys the uphill section on return



Blustery weather over Vimy Peak



Final few hundred metres of an awesome day! (photo by Dave)

The End

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