Ruby Ridge IX

Ruby Ridge IX

October 30, 2023

Mountain height: 2420 m
Elevation gain: 870 m
Ascent time: 3:35
Descent time: 2:10

Solo scramble.

Unfortunately, clear skies and decent air temperatures for the day were negated by a fierce and biting wind, as I prepared to do a trip in or near Waterton. Driving into the park, I decided that a conservative objective was probably best. Approximately a year earlier a new route up Ruby Ridge’s east peak had provided a more than entertaining experience and so I chose a repeat ascent. However, this time, instead of veering right and gaining the southeast ridge I would try to follow the drainage between the two peaks of the mountain.
Surprisingly, the strong wind was noticeably absent as I started the ascent – the Akamina Parkway often doubles as a wind tunnel! Nevertheless, I was committed to trying a slightly different route up and once a little elevation was gained, I traversed into the drainage. Unfortunately, it quickly became clear that staying in the drainage was not a possibility, due to running water and treacherously icy footing. As such, I followed the waterway, but some distance above it. A few cool ice features were encountered, including a decent sized frozen waterfall early in the trip.

Traversing over to the colourful southeast ridge was tempting at several points, but I wanted to explore the rock bands of argillite that line the summit ridge from the south side and so I stayed near the drainage. Not surprisingly, the striking bands of incredibly vibrant red rock were the highlight of the day. I found an easy route up to the ridge, where the summit was a short distance away.

After a brief summit stay, I decided to descend the southeast ridge instead of retracing my route. However, the snow on the ridge turned out to be much deeper than expected. Once about a third of the total elevation was lost, I traversed back to my ascent route. Following the footprints you’ve made in the snow going up is always a treat going down!

Another fantastic day out on a lowly peak that always delivers!

Looking up to the end of the southeast ridge of Ruby's east summit

Traversing towards the drainage

The drainage

The lower part of the drainage had the most interesting terrain

Love the initial signs of winter

Approaching a small but impressive frozen waterfall

Once fully formed this might make for some relatively easy and fun ice climbing

The middle peak of Buchanan Ridge makes an appearance

The frozen waterfall and a lone tree nearby

Back near the drainage

Too sketchy to get into the drainage so I just followed it up, but from a distance

Buchanan Northeast

One of the points where I could have traversed up and over to the southeast ridge

Stayed near the drainage instead

The left fork of the drainage would lead to the south ridge of Ruby's true summit

The route ahead and the summit at the far left

More cool signs of winter

Bigger peaks to the west are starting to appear

Mount Peabody in Montana peaks over Forum Peak in Alberta/B.C.

The colourful rock of the upper mountain starts to appear

There's some red argillite magic up ahead

Looking across the increasingly steep face of the mountain

Sweet, snow scenery, Round 1

Round 2

Back to the argillite

Picked a route alongside the outcrop at the left

A very beautiful outcrop

Great rock on both sides

The most striking scene from the upper section

Close-up

Still more to come

Icicle formations are always one of the highlights of winter

Cornice scenery also fits into that category

Snuck up to the ridge via through the gap near the right

But not before a last red rock encounter

Small, but sweet cornice

The wind does more than just create cool cornices

Steps away from the summit

Same as above

View to the southeast, south, and southwest

Mount Blakiston

View towards Cameron Lake

Chapman Peak, Thunderbird Mountain (I think), and Mount Custer

Custer and Cameron Lake

Forum Peak and Peabody again

Kintla and Kinnerly

The minor peak in the foreground (unofficially named "Igneous Peak") has become one of my favourite trips in Waterton

Mount Cleveland

Heading down the southeast ridge

Last look at Blakiston

Looking down the generally easy and very scenic southeast ridge

Crandell Lake below Mount Crandell

Dodging a few rock bands to get down the ridge

More beautiful rock to ogle

One of the coolest rock bands on the ridge

There's definitely a face somewhere in the rock at the right

Passing another band

Great views down the ridge

Same as above

The snow became quite deep at this point

But boy was it beautiful!

The last of the bands

Traversing back onto my ascent route

Looking back up the route

The Buchanan's are looking better later in the day

Cool cloud

Back at the frozen waterfall

The End

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