Siyeh Pass Peak
August 30, 2025
Mountain heights: 2590 m, 2660 m
Total elevation gain: 1050
m
Ascent time to
SPP: 3:00
SPP to LM time: 1:25
Descent time: 3:10
Scrambling with
Mark.
During a trip
up Otokomi West in 2023 (still one of my favourite days in the mountains, ever)
I spotted this unnamed and very intriguing peak above the west side of Otokomi
Lake. A route to the peak via the lake would expose you to some of the most
breath-taking red argillite scenery you may ever see in this part of the world.
Unfortunately,
after thoroughly scrutinizing the topo lines on a variety of maps I came to the
conclusion that a scramble route from the lake probably did not exist. 
However,
a route from Siyeh Pass up the west ridge of the peak looked to be quite
feasible. I did find it strange that the peak was unnamed and there were no
documented routes up its west ridge; perhaps the mountain was in fact
unassailable from all sides – I was wrong about both. Fortuitously, I stumbled
upon a terrific report by Bob Sihler, describing a scramble route to the
top, from near the pass. Sihler called it Point 8490, but I’ll refer to the
mountain as Siyeh Pass Peak.
With the
objective now picked, we had to decide how to get to Siyeh Pass. You can access
the pass from Sunrift Gorge or Siyeh Bend. Both are reported to be incredibly
scenic (we certainly knew that to be true for the former approach), however,
the Siyeh Bend approach is shorter, with less elevation gain (about 300 m) –
decision made!
And then for
the crux of the day – parking. On the Saturday of a long weekend, the park was
sure to be jam-packed. Fortunately, we snagged one of the last spots at Siyeh
Bend around 8 am. An hour of hiking later we entered the Preston Park area of
the approach. Admittedly, I found this area to be less scenic than advertised,
perhaps because the Sun had not yet lit up the surroundings or maybe because of
the lack of advertised wildflowers. 
Nevertheless, the trail was excellent and soon
we were hitting the switchbacks up to the pass.
Here’s where
the scenery and views did improve – and quite dramatically. Rounding the
northeast end of Mataphi Peak, we were surprised to find that there are two
closely spaced passes in the area and Siyeh Pass was much higher than where we
expected it to be. Of course, the views to the east, north, and south, were
fantastic at both passes, now featuring a host of colourful and striking peaks
in those directions.
From Siyeh
Pass, the day’s objective looked pretty darn cool. Sihler describes two routes
to the summit: an exposed class 3 route along the ridge and a class 2 route
below the ridge. We chose the easier route, although even for that one there
was a short section where you have to traverse a narrow ledge with significant
exposure to the right. Aside from that, however, the ascent was easy and very
enjoyable. After a string of recent ascents featuring the hideous,
ankle-jarring rubble of Kananaskis, it was good to be on the more
ankle-friendly terrain of Northen Montana/Southern Alberta, created by the
Lewis Thrust Fault.
As for the view
from the top – outstanding! Surrounded by craggy peaks, rounded peaks,
colourful peaks, several beautiful bodies of water, and some glacial remains, SPP
sits right in the centre of everything. We sat down for a long and immensely
rewarding summit stay.
Mark fills up his water near the start, after it somehow leaked out during the drive
Mount Siyeh is a very popular and awesome scramble in the area
The first pass is directly ahead
On one of several switchbacks before the first pass. Reynolds, Piegan, Pollock, Bishop's Cap, and Siyeh behind
Mount Reynolds is another fantastic scramble. In fact, I have yet to find a trip in Glacier that is not fantastic!
Views of Siyeh were captivating throughout the day
Zoomed-in photo of a few hikers and Siyeh Pass Peak (although we did not know it was SPP at the time)
Near the first pass
There
Minor detour to check out the remains of what was once a decent-sized glacier on the northeast side of the first pass
Going to the little highpoint of the glacier
Same as above
Mark is almost at Siyeh Pass
Mark's view of me (at the left) and the stunning surroundings
Siyeh Pass
A ridiculously huge cairn and Siyeh Pass Peak
Standing atop the chaotic cairn - not quite up to Barnaby Ridge standards!
Like Siyeh, Little Matahpi is also going to garner much attention
Little Chief Mountain to the south is definitely on the to-do list
Heading towards the objective at the left
Little Matahpi is so impressive from this angle and looks to be a
separate mountain, but is in fact only a bump on the northeast ridge of
Matahpi Peak
Going-To-The-Sun Mountain (GTTS) is likewise impressive
Now starting to see some red argillite on GR088024
Initially, the ridge is easy to follow
Same as above, with Matahpi and Little Matahpi behind
Two unnamed tarns in the valley below are going to add considerably to the scenic value of the ascent
GTTS and the Matahpis
The rock of the ridge from below. We stayed below the ridge for most of the remainder of the ascent.
The feature at the right is one of the reasons we stayed below the ridge. Downclimbing that was NOT an option!
Mark at the base of the feature
Same as above
Near but not on the ridge for the next section
The crux is easier going up than coming down. A slip to the right here would be very bad.
The view behind is really starting to shape up
Minutes away from the top
Little Matahpi is looking a little less independent now
Most of the Wynn to Siyeh traverse
A couple more minutes away from the top
The summit cairn
View to the northeast, east, and southeast
Two very pronounced thumbs up for this mountain
GTTS
I think that's Split Mountain on the left and Mount Stimson on the right
Bishop's Cap
Red jacket to match the red argillite
A small glacier tarn near the Sexton Glacier
Summit panos
What's left of the Sexton Glacier
One of the tarns
Part of beautiful Otokomi Lake
Goat Mountain
Siyeh and the tarn through a gap
Close-up
Click HERE to continue to Little Matahpi.
