Igneous Peak IV












     


November 25, 2023
 
Mountain height: 2426 m
Elevation gain:    900 m
Ascent time:        3:55
Descent time:      1:55
 
Solo snowshoe, with a little mountaineering.
 
Completing this trip in winter-like conditions doesn’t make a whole lotta’ sense – snow will cover most of the colourful rock and also negate the fun scrambling element of the route. However, that has never stopped me before so why should it now?! I had done a winter reconnaissance snowshoe trip of the route in April of 2022 and found the trip to be very enjoyable, even without the aforementioned perks. Hopefully, a late November ascent would grant me the best of both worlds – colourful rock AND snow! I also picked this trip because of the nasty wind inundating the area, hoping that I would be sheltered from it for much of the day.   
 
Usually by late November, we all would expect to be in full-on winter conditions. However, an unusually warm and dry 11th month ensured that would not be the case for me on this day. A recent snowfall had left a few centimetres of unconsolidated snow on the approach trail, but there was ground below, with no layering of  the snow – good news for avalanche conditions, bad news for the environment in general.
 
Someone had already hiked the trail earlier in the day and I was happy to step in his/her footprints. That changed upon starting up the drainage. The snow was much deeper here and of course no one had broken trail up this somewhat obscure route. I tried to go up without snowshoes, but that was short-lived. With snowshoes, I more or less cruised up the drainage (as much as “cruising” with snowshoes is possible!). Most of the colourful boulders were completely covered in snow, but there was enough on display for a few good photo ops.
 
Steeper terrain higher up slowed my progress considerably but in general, ascending the route with snowshoes was straightforward. Again, I was thankful for the innocuous snow conditions. Doing this route with potential avalanche hazard would be dicey!  
 
The seriousness of the route did increase upon reaching the summit ridge. I traded the snowshoes for crampons and an ice axe here and was very happy to have the added security. As well as experiencing the awesome summit view, it was also good to be reunited with “Jarome” the summit cairn – a terrific name coined by Dave McMurray, in honour of one of the greatest Calgary Flames ever and a wonderful role model, Mr. Jarome Iginla (“Iggy”, as in igneous!). Surprisingly the wind was non-existent at the top.
 
A quick visit to the stunning igneous band of rock is pretty much mandatory at this point and so off I went. From the band taking a direct descent down to the drainage seemed like a good idea and it was, the snow providing a nice cushion for the scree underneath. The hike out was likewise easy, under the setting Sun.
 
A wonderfully scenic and very varied day on a peak that is likely to see me many more times.


The southwest side of Ruby Ridge looking less steep than it really is



The east outlier of Mount Rowe. I have been there once and will probably return someday - could be a good winter objective from the southwest side (not seen here).



The classic view of Mount Lineham on approach



The start of the drainage - didn't need snowshoes here, but they were on my feet about 5 minutes later



Some of the rock visible in the drainage



Another, but it's a small fraction of the amazing rock that lies beneath the snow



The most vibrant chunk of red rock of the day







The now familiar view of the middle and upper parts of the route



The very distinctive outlier on the southeast side of Blakiston that commands much photo attention



Same as above



Igneous Peak (small bump just right of centre) doesn't look like much from this vantage point



But the sweet rockbands on the left side of the drainage look fantastic!











Missing the scrambling, but loving the views



Looking back down the ascent route



The fixation with the Blakiston outlier will be constant



Tiny frozen waterfall



The cold of winter doesn't agree with me, as it did once upon a time, but the snowy scenery of winter always will











Ruby Ridge



The upper section of the route is steeper than it looks



...but littered with great rock scenery



The lower section of the outlier looks daunting, but there are several routes up it



The colourful rock of the summit ridge



Mount Chapman dominates the view to the southwest, but Mount Carthew, Carthew Minor, and Carthew Minor-Minor are also visible



Summit of Igneous at the right



Approaching the ridge, the outlier gets very daunting!



On the ridge. Ruby Lake below, in the shade.



Pano from the ridge, with Igneous Peak in the centre



View of the outlier



Close-up



The east shoulder of Blakiston



Where I decided that crampons and an ice axe would be a good idea



A few sections of the ridge must be circumvented on the right side. If you try the left, you will get to experience the thrill of weightlessness (before you die)







Surprisingly, this rock band would turn out to be my favourite of the day, surpassing the red argillite bands and the igneous band!



Perhaps because the colourful rock was backdropped by the deepest blue skies of the day



The band and the Blakiston outlier



The band and Igneous



Definitely my favourite scene of the trip



Still a little ways to go to the top



Looking back yet again



Forward again



The near vertical sections of the ridge



Weightlessness on the left side; remain living on the right



Closing in on the summit



Looking back to the ascent slopes



Fooled for a fourth time - I thought this was a rock window, but its a gap. Same thing happened on the first three ascents!



At the summit and reunited with Jarome, at the left. Thanks to Dave for building Jarome!



The Blakiston outlier looks fierce from this angle



View to the fantastic east peak of Ruby Ridge and the west side route up Mount Crandell



Descending to the igneous band



Rogan, Galwey North, and Mount Galwey beyond the rock







The sweet igneous band











The ridge continues down to the Igneous/Ruby col and then up to Ruby, but the route is not a pushover - an elevation loss or difficult downclimb are required



The rock above the igneous band is also incredible to look at



Both bands



Close-up of the solid magma



Not so close



Leaving



The igneous band from the descent route



Buchanan Ridge and Mount Carthew



Bit of ice



The outlier is still getting lots of love



Down to easier terrain. Had to put the snowshoes back on here.



Parting look at the route



Buchanan, The Middle Child getting its last rays of Sun

The End

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