Galwey North III
Rogan Peak V






 
May 15, 2021
 
Mountain heights: 2384 m, 2442 m
Elevation gain:      approximately 1150 m
Round-trip time:    11:30
 
Solo scramble and scramble with Doug, Mike, and Darren.
 
What started out as a magnificent solo trip turned into an even more magnificent group trip on this wonderful day of (sorta’) unexpected surprises!
 
Originally, I had planned on a repeat ascent of Drywood Mountain via its south side. However, on the drive in, looking at the significant amount of snow still residing on the higher peaks of the east Castle and the fact the day was forecast to be unusually warm for mid-May, I decided a more conservative objective would be wise. Still riding a high from a repeat ascent of Mount Galwey, two weeks earlier, the new objective became a more thorough exploration of Coppermine Creek, with the option to ascend the north summit of Galwey via its south and west ridges – a route I had descended twice but always wanted to repeat in the opposite direction.
 
Arriving at the parking lot around 6:30 am, I noted three cars already there. Earlier in the week Doug Lutz had expressed an interest in the Mount Galwey ascent and a possible traverse to the north summit and so I assumed the vehicles belonged to Doug and his climbing partners. Still, bumping into the group was a long shot at best, as I wasn’t even sure I would be going all the way to the north summit. 
 
Although not as consistently spectacular as its westerly neighbours Lost Horse Creek and Red Rock Canyon, Coppermine Creek provided more than enough spectacular rock and water scenery to make it a worthwhile destination in itself – tons of red and green argillite, cascades, and multiple small waterfalls. Of course, the creek resided in shade at this time of the day. Coming back down the same way when the Sun was lighting up the valley already had enormous appeal. The creek quickly asserted itself as Pleasant Surprise #1 of the day.
 
I was also surprised to discover that following the creek all the way up to the north summit of Mount Galwey (we’ll call it Galwey North for now) seemed entirely possible, with the added bonus of an appealing snow gully most of the way up. Suddenly Galwey North was full-on!
 
I didn’t get to the snow gully. With perfectly clear, blue skies and the Sun now shining on the corniced ridge above, its lure was too great. I found a dried-up gully and made my way directly up. Pleasant Surprises #2 and #3 awaited atop the ridge. First, the amazing view in every direction (not really that much of a surprise given the location of the ridge) and second, the remaining snow overhanging the east and south sides of the ridge. This snow was more reminiscent of the serac formations and crevasses on a glacier than just the simple remnants of an average winter snowpack on a low, front-range, non-glaciated mountain. Traversing the easy 700 odd metres of ridge to the base of the scrambling section took a solid hour in light of all the distractions and side-trips needed to see as much of the snow spectacle as possible. In fact, I considered just hanging out there for the remainder of the day and then using the snow gully for descent.
 
But that didn’t happen either and I’m so happy it didn’t! As conjectured, ascending this route to Galwey North offered a far more enjoyable experience than descending it. Small steps that I would have circumvented when descending the ridge were relatively easy to scramble straight up going in the opposite direction – Pleasant Surprise #4 (sorta!). There were definitely a few detours to the right side, but all on fun and scenic terrain.


 
Once in a while, I would peer over to the connecting ridge between Galwey and Galwey North to see if I could spot Doug and his partner(s), but no luck. If they had completed the traverse, they might have been long gone or perhaps they had just settled for Mount Galwey. Then I heard voices. It only took a few seconds to spot someone wearing a neon green top that unmistakably belonged to Doug Lutz. Either the voice also belonged to Doug or he had been mugged for his shirt in the Coppermine Creek parking lot! To my delight, I was to discover that Doug had convinced two brave souls, Mike Buenting (who I met in November of 2020 on Black Rock Mountain) and Darren Steffler, to join him – More Than Pleasant Surprise #5. The pair had to leave Calgary around 2:30 am to make the 5:45 am start-time!         
 
We all converged at the summit of Galwey North, where I was formally introduced to Darren and extended an enthusiastic “great to see to both again” to Doug and Mike. What a wonderful turn of events bumping into these three!
 
Though content to turn around and head home at this point, when Doug invited me to continue along the ridge to Rogan Peak, I simply couldn’t pass up the opportunity of hang out with the trio for a few additional hours. Kevin Barton and I had completed this traverse in 2007 and although my memory of the details was hazy at best, I did recall it to be an enjoyable affair. I was very wrong about the “enjoyable” – it was amazing!!
 
Darren, who quickly asserted himself as a stud scrambler and “downclimbing machine”, led much of the traverse, taking the group over wonderfully varied and interesting terrain. And of course, equally enjoyable (I mean amazing!) was the company. There were many laughs and terrific moments throughout – great to share an awesome ridge-traverse with three awesome individuals who appreciate the terrain, the rock, the scenery, the companionship, and of course the adventure.  
 
Another rewarding and amusing summit stay at the top of Rogan Peak followed. Charlie’s Angels poses somehow became the theme! Doug had thoughtfully brought two summit registers, placing the second atop Rogan Peak. The first had already been left at Galwey North.
 
Descent time and lots of decision to be made. Doug, Mike, and Darren were headed to Bellevue Hill. They had already completed a Herculean day by ascending Mount Galwey, Galwey North, and Rogan Peak – why not add a fourth! I (more specifically my knees) had no such intention, but I did suggest an alternate route to Bellevue that would not require them to retrace their steps to the Galweys. That route would require more elevation gain and horizontal distance, however. Although tempted, in the end the trio graciously decided to accompany me back to Galwey North, where we would part ways.    
 
Initially, we returned the same way we came, but after getting past the crux of the traverse, we decided to follow a wide ledge on the right (west) side of the ridge, in order to avoid gaining elevation all the way back to Galwey North. While this route did grant exposure to new scenery, it also granted us exposure to some tedious side-hilling. Upon reaching the west ridge of Galwey North, we unanimously agreed that sticking to the ridge would have been better. No regrets, however. Personally, I love trying different routes – some are better than the standard route and some are not, but you’ll never know if you don’t try!
 
After saying our non-teary goodbyes, I headed down the west ridge of Galwey North, while Doug, Mike, and Darren continued side-sloping back towards Galwey. At this point, for me, fatigue was setting in and I opted to lose a bunch of elevation and then traverse into the drainage lower down, eliminating the need to take the crampons and ice axe out for the aforementioned snow gully. I was thoroughly impressed that my scrambling partners were still seeking out another summit, and still facing significant elevation gains, as I was approaching “The Walking Dead” status. Coppermine Creek did prove to be even more spectacular later in the day, prompting another barrage of photos and exploration – nothing like a stunning, red argillite creek to take you mind off feeling like a walking corpse! I arrived back at the parking lot after about 11.5 hours of travel, thoroughly exhausted and thoroughly satiated.
 
A stellar day, featuring the best of everything: fantastic scenery of every kind, fun solo travel and exploration, even more fun group travel with three terrific scramblers/human beings, two summits and an amazing ridge between them – doesn’t get much better! And a huge shout out to Doug, Mike and Darren, for their super impressive 4 peak day, but more importantly a "thank you" for their outstanding company between Galwey North and Rogan Peak.
Scenes of Coppermine Creek

















Leaving the creek and heading up a dried-up drainage to the ridge



Classic Waterton gully - easy, step-like travel up colourful rock



Mount Crandell and Buchanan Northeast (right)



First good look at Mount Galwey (right) and Galwey North



Striking rock and view upon reaching the ridge. Anderson Peak is one of the prominent mountains.



At nearly 3000 m, Mount Blakiston is usually the most prominent mountain in any Waterton view



The Galweys (right) and the entertaining ridge between them



As stated, Mount Blakiston is prominent and also beautiful



Newman Senior and Mount Glendowan - great traverse between the two



This burned out tree had some interesting colours and contours (see below)
 






Continuing up the ridge



Views to the west continue to improve. Ruby Ridge, to the left of Blakiston, is one of Waterton's most unassuming mountains but hides many scenic treasures



The start of the fantastic snow and cornice scenery











Mount Dungarvan and its magnificent south ridge



There are a few minor and enjoyable ups and downs along the ridge



More comprehensive look at the long and amazing ridge that connects Dungarvan to Dundy to Cloudy Ridge to Cloudowan to Glendowan to Newman to Avion Ridge. And Anderson Peak again at the far left.



Fresh bear tracks on the ridge



Looking back at another down


Round 2 of the snow and cornice scenery














































End of snow and cornice scenery



Blakiston again and some remnants of the Kenow fire at the right



False alarm - there's more snow ahead!



Can't get enough of this kind of scenery







Definitely the end of the snow for now



The first major obstacle on the ridge that must be circumvented



Above the step and back on the ridge



Approaching the second







Re-gaining the ridge after the second rock band brings you face-to-face with the the igneous band of rock common to most peaks in Waterton, The Castle, and Glacier National Park


Nice shade of lichen



Looking over to Mount Galwey. Doug, Mike, and Darren are somewhere there. 



There's Mike!



Mike on a pinnacle on rock



Doug's view of me, as I make my way up to the summit (photo by Doug)



Doug's unmistakable neon green shirt, Mike, and the Mount Galwey. This photo makes Galwey look very close, but it's a good hour of travel between Galwey and Galwey North.



Doug's final few steps to the summit



Triumph!
(one of Canada's two ridiculously awesome power trio rock bands. If you don't know the other, you are not Canadian! {says the Englishman!!!})



Doug's new register (photo by Doug)

Our gangsta poses. If our goal here was to be intimidating in a totally non-threatening and almost pathetically comical way, we succeeded in spades! (photo by Doug)

The next objective - Rogan Peak at the right. Dungarvan at the left.



Looking for routes down the summit block (photo by Doug)

Looking down the route Darren and Mike downclimbed (photo by Doug)

Mike points out the route to me (photo by Doug)

Doug chooses a different route



Looking back at the summit block



Back on the snow for a short section (photo by Doug)

And off - just in case the cornice at the right decides to pack it in for the year! (photo by Mike)



Obviously no cornice issues here (photo by Doug)



Darren looks down the impressive east side of the ridge
 


Awesome travel along the scenic ridge (photo by Mike)

Darren approaches two prominent pinnacles on the ridge (photo by Mike)



Mike checks to see if there's a scramble route up the first - no dice! (photo by Doug)

Doug rounds a corner. There were a few tricky downclimbs along the way, but all very short



Doug, with the pinnacles behind



Approaching the first major obstacle (photo by Mike)

Darren finds a weakness on the west side of the obstacle (photo by Doug)

Up he goes. Unfortunately the rock was very slick from snow-melt. Doug and I took a different route a little farther north (photo by Mike).

Darren rounds a corner having successfully ascended the slick gully



This huge gap in the ridge was very impressive. Darren led us up the cool chimney feature that I'm approaching (photo by Mike).



Same as above (photo by Mike)



A little exposed but lots of good ledges to grab onto and stand on (photo by Doug)




Back onto easier, but no-less enjoyable terrain (photo by Doug)



More sweet lichen and sweeter Doug!



Continuing along the awesome ridge (photo by Mike)



The next section was very easy and featured some fairly severe cornices (photo by Mike)



The cornice behind me was very severe. We all took a circuitous route around it (photo by Mike).



Mike looks back at another scary cornice (photo by Doug)



Darren waits for us on the other side of yet another awe-inspiring but frightening cornice



This one is given a wide berth too



Mount Dungarvan



It was definitely at times a socially-distanced trip! (photo by Darren)



At the false summit and heading to the true summit of Rogan Peak, a short distance away (photo by Mike)



Doug and Darren have the "jump-shot" mastered; mine needs some serious work! (photo by Doug)



New register for Rogan Peak, courtesy of Doug (photo by Doug)



Summit view to the west



The "4-Peak Traverse Trio" at the summit. I descended the other side a short distance to see if I could spot another party, led by Jared Szakacs, on the mountain. Would have been nice to say "Hi". Apparently we missed them by about 15 minutes.



Backed up even farther!



Our Charlie's Angels poses. Yet again, two/thirds of the team seems to know what they are doing, while the twit in the middle is clueless! (photo by Doug)



Great summit team selfie by Mike (photo by Mike)



Starting back



Up and over the first bump



Galwey North appears again at the left. There's a fair amount of elevation to regain to reach it (photo by Mike).



Enjoying another small uphill section along the vertiginous ridge (photo by Darren)



Mike and me and the sweet lichen (photo by Doug)



Darren takes an unexpected detour, squeezing through a gap in the rock
 


Mike follows



Switchbacking across the ledgey terrain, past the crux (photo by Mike)



Mike (lower left) is dwarfed by the first major obstacle



Darren negotiates a tricky downclimb



Mike picks a great perspective of three of us hiking past the pinnacles (photo by Mike)



Back at the pinnacles



The traverse around the west side begins



Mike retrieves a pole he dropped



Darren (upper left) does a fine job of finding the best path around the mountain



Typical terrain during the long traverse



Back on the west ridge of North Galwey, where we parted ways



Doug, Mike, and Darren embark on their long traverse back towards Galwey. The significant distance between the Galweys is quite clear here.



Some of the terrain on the west ridge that is not downclimbable



Looking down to the Coppermine Creek valley



Took a little detour to check out these cool formations







Almost down to the creek and looking up the route I planned to ascend, then planned to descend, but in the end did neither!



The Creek and the last look at both Galweys



One more look at Galwey North


Another round of the wonderful scenery lining the banks of Coppermine Creek


















































Sneaking past a group of sheep above the creek



Mount Crandell again







Back at the start and exhausted!

The End

LOG
P.S. For those who were unsure about the other Canadian power rock trio, it's of course RUSH! Check out their introduction into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (love Dave Grohl's reaction) and one of my favourite Rush songs (more poignant than ever these days!)
    "For you the blind who once could see
The bell tolls for thee..."

(Losing It, lyrics by Neil Peart)