Ciabatta
and
The Breadsticks






   


April 20, 2024
 
Mountain heights:        2050 m, 2199 m, 2236 m
Elevation gain:             808 m
Round-trip time:           8:00
 
Scrambling and mountaineering with Dave and Brad.
 
Sometimes the best plan is no plan at all.
 
The three of us piled into Brad’s vehicle and headed towards the eastern edge of The Castle without any idea of where we might end up. We eventually decided to wander up the Bovin Lake Trail and pick something en route. That turned out to be Bakery Peak from the north side. I had completed a route up Bakery in 2006 from this side of the valley but couldn’t remember any details of the specific route.
 
After hiking the gas road almost to its end, we followed a snowy trail towards the planned route. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see a path all the way to the ridge, the large amount of snow on the mountain making it difficult to discern a line. As such, the decision was made to follow the drainage to the west towards a couple of lesser-known ice climbs and attempt to gain the hanging valley above those climbs. Brad had been to the ice climbs, but we would be looking for a non-technical route up to higher terrain.
 
The approach drainage was stupendous! Firm snow, searingly blue skies, interesting terrain all around, and an impressive peak in front that would later in the day be dubbed “Ciabatta” (in keeping with the bread theme of Loaf Mountain) – all the ingredients for perfection.
 
Approaching the ice climbs, it became quite clear that hiking poles were going to be insufficient from here. We all put on crampons and Brad wisely went with two ice tools. Dave and I stuck with a hiking pole and one ice axe – not a good decision as we would soon see. Travel up to one of the ice climbs (Tearful Symmetry) was relatively easy and the ice quite stunning. Then things got more serious.
 
The grade increased and Brad soon reached a rock step covered in ice. With two ice tools he was able to easily ascend the step. I was not. I did have an ice tool with me (Brad graciously brings extras) but it was faster for Brad to just lower one of his down to me. Dave came up a slightly different line, muscling his way up with only one axe.
 
Above the step, the terrain steepened even more, soon requiring an exhilarating traverse across a slope where your self-arrest skills had better be in top form if a slip occurred! Again, Brad led – he was totally in his element here. Dave and I watched and followed in awe.
 
The traverse led us to the massive bowl above the ice climbs, where we had several options. A couple of small but distinctive peaks to the west looked intriguing, or more specifically a steep snow couloir between them. After a short break we started towards the ridge northwest of peaks – soon to be named “The Breadsticks” (Dave comes up with the best names!).
 
As we gained elevation, however, going left towards the highpoint at the end of that northwest ridge seemed like a good idea and it was. We soon arrived at top of Ciabatta to a terrific viewpoint. Brad and I wanted to call it “Fertilized Spinach Dip Peak” (don’t inquire!), but eventually agreed “Ciabatta” was a name less likely to lead to some form of institutionalization for any given member of the group!
   
 
The Breadsticks were next, and they were fantastic! After hiking the ridge and then traversing into the couloir, Brad started up this magnificent feature. Again, we were blessed with perfect snow conditions and clear skies above. At the top of the couloir, the first Stick was reached with relative ease; the second not so much. Here we encountered waist-deep snow on steep terrain. Of course, this was not about to stop Brad, his fierce trail-breaking skills on par with his technical climbing ones.  
 
Following his lead yet again, we all quickly arrived at the top of the Second Stick – really just the north end of Pastry Peak. With more time and less snow, that summit may have even been a possibility. However, lacking the former and an excess of the latter meant we would just settle for a rewarding break at our highpoint.
 
Generally retracing our steps down the mountain was the only logical way to get down. Care was definitely needed on the traverse and ice step, but otherwise the descent went with ease.
 
Totally awesome unplanned ascent with the finest people south of Calgary! 


Click HERE to see Dave's awesome report!            



At the trailhead and ready to go somewhere - not sure where at this point



Drywood Mountain keeps us company while hiking the gas road (photo by Dave)



The summit of Pastry Peak, left of centre, and Ciabatta and The Breadsticks at the right (photo by Dave)



Searching for a potential route up the north side of Bakery Peak (photo by Dave)



Hiking towards the drainage near the right, having decided against attempting Bakery (photo by Dave)



Brad leads the way and breaks trail. Brad and Dave did most of the trail-breaking on this trip. I was just there to add some colour to the day (photo by Dave).



Still thinking a bit about Bakery



However, Ciabatta (right) is looking pretty darn cool from down here (photo by Dave)



In the drainage



First look at the Flesh for Fantasy ice climb (photo by Dave)



The drainage winds up the valley in magnificent fashion



Drywood Mountain is always there (photo by Dave)







Ciabatta continues to impress



Turning the corner



The ice climbs are now visible. Left to right: Tearful Symmetry, Flesh For Fantasy, and Flash For Fantasy (photo by Dave).



Flesh For Fantasy - obviously a reference to the 1984 Billy Idol song. Billy still rockin' the song 25 years later.



Flash For Fantasy - probably a play on words on "Flesh" and a reference to the 1980 movie and cult classic, Flash Gordon, with an awesome soundtrack by Queen.



The "lagging behind guy's" view of all of the above



There's the colour I was brought along for - my yellow jacket, not my half brown skin! (photo by Dave)



Fully armed (two ice tools and crampons), Brad leads the next section up to the ice climbs (photo by Dave)



Dave is loving this



Approaching Tearful Symmetry - likely a reference to the words "fearful symmetry" from the famous William Blake poem, The Tyger (photo by Dave).



Same as above from Brad's viewpoint (photo by Brad)



Beautiful! One of the pioneering bands of electronic music, Tangerine Dream, put the Blake poem to music in 1987.



Brad leads the way around the end of the ice climbs



Up we go on increasingly steep terrain (photo by Dave)



Brad wisely went with two ice tools here. The terrain is much steeper than it looks (photo by Dave).



Brad ascends a small but almost vertical sheet of ice (photo by Dave)



Brad had to lower one of his ice tools to me so I could get up the step. It was unclimbable with only one axe/tool. He's a very honourable man! (photo by Brad).



More steep terrain above the ice and Brad has started the traverse into the bowl (photo by Dave)



Brad is totally in his element here - steep snow and ice. He is an amazing and very accomplished climber, completing many technical routes in Southern Alberta that few humans have ever done. Dave and I were very happy to follow his lead (photo by Brad).



Rounding the corner to find easier terrain (photo by Dave)



The easier terrain and terrific view



Descending into the huge bowl above the ice climbs (photo by Dave)



Dave stayed high on the slope so he could look down on Brad and me (literally, not figuratively!) (photo by Dave)



Dave descending to join us. The ice climb above is called Arctic Cream.



I'm checking out Arctic Cream and Brad is lighting up his pipe (photo by Dave)



Bakery Peak and "Icing on the Loaf Peak" - super fond memories of both trips



Dave spots a group of sheep (photo by Dave)



They were aware of our presence but didn't seem too concerned, and just went on their way (photo by Dave)



On the move again. At this point the goal was to gain the ridge near the left and see where it takes us.



The Breadsticks are just right of centre. The intriguing snow couloir between them caught our attention right away.



One of the very short sections I led (I love traveling with the B & D trail-breaking machines!) (photo by Dave)



One steeper section just before the ridge



Dave is up



Some side-sloping to get over to the ridge (photo by Dave)



Same as above, with Drywood (photo by Dave)



The colourful guy is lagging behind again and doesn't look so colourful! (photo by Dave)



Brad and Dave approach the highpoint of Ciabatta



Brad at the end of the ridge. Further continuation would require a wingsuit (photo by Dave)



View to the east (photo by Dave)



Colourboy has finally arrived (photo by Dave)



Pastry Peak in the centre



Looking down at some of our ascent tracks (photo by Dave)



Heading towards The Breadsticks at the right



Same as above



And again



I'm just going to change my name to "The Lagger"! (photo by Dave)



Brad is leading again and will do so for the remainder of the ascent (photo by Dave)



The Lagger and Drywood (photo by Dave)



Redwood Peak (right) and the Southwest summit of Drywood Mountain



Perhaps I'm The Lagger because I take too many photos



Some elevation must be gained on the first Breadstick before we can traverse into the snow couloir



Gaining it (photo by Dave)



Traversing over to the couloir



Same as above (photo by Dave)



And again



Brad is in the couloir and will lead it to the top (photo by Dave)



This couloir was magnificent - steep but firm snow, with beautiful rock on both sides.



Finally, The Lagger is in the couloir too



Up and up (photo by Dave)



Stranger danger! (photo by Dave)



Brad approaches the top (photo by Dave)



Looking over the lip of the couloir (photo by Dave)



False alarm - it's just The Colourful Lagger (photo by Dave)



Dave checks out the cool, lichen-covered rock



Brad and Dave at the top of the first Breadstick



The view towards the east end of Loaf (photo by Dave)



View to the north (photo by Dave)



The second Breadstick (photo by Dave)



My turn atop the first one (photo by Dave)



Leaving the first (photo by Dave)



Looking down the north side of the couloir



Brad does his fierce trail-breaking thing (photo by Dave)



Onto easier terrain (photo by Dave)



Yet again, the Spoiled Brat Colourful Lagger benefits from the hard work of others (photo by Dave)



I've taken the lead - when it gets easy! (photo by Dave)



Last few steps to the highpoint. As you can see, the second Breadstick is merely the north end of Pastry Peak (photo by Dave).



The true summit of Loaf Mountain (photo by Dave)



All the Loaf's highpoints can be seen here: Bakery, Icing On The Loaf, Pastry, and Loaf (photo by Dave)



Windsor Mountain and Castle Peak (photo by Dave)

Dave and Drywood



Brad and Pastry



Big chunk of Loaf's east ridge



Last chance to take it in (photo by Dave)



Starting down (photo by Dave)



Easy terrain near the top, but care was still required



The couloir was steep enough to warrant facing into the mountain as we descended it (photo by Dave)



Dave descends (photo by Brad)



Onto the gentle part of the ridge between Ciabatta and The Breadsticks



Brad leads the way down a slightly different path



Same as above



Here comes Dave



Brad glissades a section of the descent; Dave and I walked.



Back into the bowl



Don't know what Brad is doing with the tree here, but that may be for the best! (photo by Dave)



Our tracks



A better view of Arctic Cream (photo by Dave)



Gaining some elevation back to "The Traverse"



Brad leads "The Traverse" and we follow



My view of the two. If you slipped here and didn't self-arrest immediately, you would get a super cool view of Tearful Symmetry, as you whizzed by it, before smashing into the ground at its base!



Easy does it (photo by Dave)



Brad descends the ice step (photo by Dave)



My turn. Brad provided lots of guidance for me here (photo by Dave).



Still steep enough to face-in (photo by Dave)



Back at Tearful Symmetry. Thankfully we didn't run into the body of someone who got that super cool view (photo by Dave).



Continuing the descent...



...around the corner...



...and down to the bottom of the valley



The other slight route change we made was taking a direct route to the last gas well instead of following the trail. This required crossing South Drywood Creek.



Looking back to Ciabatta and The Breadsticks at the right



The 4 km hike back felt long, but we were all riding a high from the events of the day. Having said that, I would have quickly traded that high for a bike at this point! (photo by Dave)

The End

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