Mount Crandell IV




December 29, 2020
 
Mountain height: 2378 m      
Elevation gain:    approximately 900 m
Ascent time:        3:30
Descent time:      2:35
 
Scramble with Mark.
 
A number of factors led to Mark and I repeating an ascent of Mount Crandell one year, less a day, after Crandell III:

1.   I had done a little reconnaissance work on a route that starts from the Crandell Lake trailhead and it appeared to offer an interesting way up the mountain.
2.   A recent (and record) snowfall had created danergous snow conditions all over the Rockies and I thought the planned route would be a relatively safe one.
3.   I was recovering from a lower back strain and wanted a short day.
4.   Crandell III was such a blast, we couldn’t resist another winter ascent of the mountain, especially by a totally different route.
 
We started the trip by headlamp and were immediately surprised not only to find the Crandell Lake trail thoroughly packed down, but very little new snow on the whole route– it appeared that Waterton was spared the walloping of snow Calgary and the more northern Rockies received a week earlier (or the vicious Waterton wind had simply blown that snow into Manitoba!). This trend continued all the way up to the first highpoint. We had snowshoes and ice axes strapped to our packs and crampons inside, but they would stay where they were throughout – Microspikes were sufficient from bottom to top and down again.
 
We lucked out with the weather and wind up to that point, experiencing cold but not bone-chilling temperatures and some very cool clouds formations to the west, especially around Mount Cleveland. Views from the ridge were excellent and quite unique. While the sunny skies held, the tolerable temperatures did not. Turning south towards the summit we were greeted by a brisk west wind – not a terribly strong wind, but one that was perhaps the coldest we’ve ever experienced. Even wearing a balaclava and two toques the right side of my head turned into what felt like a block of ice! Mark suffered equally.
 
With little shelter from the wind at the summit, we continued for a short distance down the south ridge (the upper section of Kane’s Bear’s Hump and Tick Ridge routes), hoping for a slightly better view of the Waterton Lakes. We got that and also a merciful break from the wind a few metres below the ridge. This was a godsend, allowing us to warm-up before the even colder return trip, and to admire the spectacular view.
 
And yes, the return trip, at least the first part, was brutally cold, now going a little more into the wind. Things improved dramatically upon reaching the first highpoint (odd given that we were now traveling directly into the wind) and we were able to take a more leisurely stroll down the mountain. With the Sun in a more favourable position in the sky, the rock scenery for this part of the trip was infinitely more gratifying.

Four fantastic ascents of Mount Crandell via four different routes and there still seems to be many options for other lines. It’s clear that we are far from done with this wonderful mountain. 


Headlamps at the trailhead. The summit can be seen at the right and the peak at the left is the one we will ascend to get to the summit.



Still going by headlamp, as we start up the main ascent slope to the left



The east peak of Ruby Ridge behind - one of the more colourful peaks in the park



The initial part of the ascent slope



The east shoulder of Mount Blakiston getting the first of the Sun's rays



"Hello Cleveland" - this cloudy view of Glacier National Park's highest mountain would become one of the highlights of the trip
 


Mount Lineham (left) and the true summit of Ruby Ridge



Buchanan Northeast is front and centre throughout - a very worthwhile objective



Atop one of several terrific rock bands (they all looked much better later in the day though)



View to the west that will be another source of much photo attention



Leaving the top of the rock band



The cloud layer would stay in front of Cleveland all day, but leave its summit visible



Patiently waiting for the Sun to light up the mountains to the west



Little by little



The summits of peaks to the north remain shrouded by clouds through most of the day. Except Mount Galwey at the far right.



Easy travel up and a shocking lack of snow



And the view continues to improve



Mount Rowe in front and the three summits of Long Knife Peak behind. Contrary to the perspective the photo implies, the two mountains are separated by about 12 km of physical distance and the US/Canada border.



Blakiston and Ruby for the umpteenth time!



The first and certainly not last photo of Cleveland the Waterton Lakes from this specific angle



Probably not going to get too many lichen photos on this day, so here it is






Approaching the summit of the major highpoint



Hoar frost on trees is always a treat to see



......so is Mount Cleveland



Mark tops out at the highpoint



Like Cleveland, mounts Kintla (left) and Kinnerly were happy to reveal their beautiful and lofty summits



View from the highpoint, with the summit of Crandell just right of centre. It's an easy 2 km hike to the top.



More hoar frost



It will probably melt in the sunny conditions, so might as well enjoy it now!



Time for some frosty close-ups









Back to the bigger picture. Awesome hike across the ridge.



Looking back to the southwest



Looking back to the northwest



Near the end of the ridge. We were still plenty warm at this point.



Mark, Kintla, and Kinnerly



Turning south onto the expansive ridge that connects the highpoint to the summit
 


Even easier travel than gaining the highpoint, but the cold was severe at this point



I need a phone that records and prints the wind-chill temperature - it was brutal at this point!



The views were too good to avoid exposing our hands to the cold to take photos



Another irresistible section of hoar frost covered trees. The price of this photo were frozen fingers on my right hand for the remainder of the ascent, even with my thick winter gloves on.



Reaching another magnificent viewpoint



Mark takes in the view, as a cloud of thin mist passes by



Back to clear skies



The frost covered ridge, with the summit, just right of centre



We thought this would probably be the best view of the day - we were wrong!



Same as above



Ditto






Already passed the summit and heading down the south ridge. Neither of us took a single photo at the top because of the extreme cold.



Great view, but little of the Upper Waterton Lake is visible



All of Buchanan Northeast is visible though



Hands-down the best view of the day



Mount Kinnerly between Mount Carthew (left) and Buchanan Ridge



Getting another lichen shot as we warm up below the ridge



View from our little shelter below the ridge



Not a stitch of wind in the shelter



The clouds continue to make things interesting to the west



Glare on lakes sometimes ruins photos and sometimes enhances them - I'll go enhance in this case



A view that never stops giving



Last glary lake shot



Not sure what these peaks are



This cloud looked like the beginning of Armageddon!



Carthew and Kinnerly again



Kinnerly and Buchanan again



You know who again



Chief Mountain



I lied about the glary lake shots



A last look - really!



Looking back as we traverse the cool ridge


Heading back to the summit. Any red argillite photo is worth frozen fingers!



Mark was brave enough to expose his hands at the summit to take two photos - here's one...



...here's the other



Back to the expanse



The clouds have finally lifted from the summits of the peaks to the north: Mount Galwey and Rogan Peak



Outstanding Mount Dungarvan



Newman Senior and Mount Glendowan - terrific traverse



I'm rushing ahead to escape the cold



The treasure of peaks between Blakiston and Galwey - so many great ascent lines



There's one of them: Anderson Peak






Almost back to the highpoint






The gentle "football field-like" northwest side of Mount Crandell is such a contrast to the craggy southeast side, where the Kane route's, numerous climbing routes, and two world class ice climbs reside



We had both warmed up at this point, even though we were traveling directly into the wind - go figure!



As usual, can't get enough of any Waterton view on a clear day



Same as above



Goodbye Cleveland



Mount Cleveland deserves to be the centre of attention, given its photogenic nature, and on this day especially



The hoar frost on the trees is gone






And, yes, a last look at Cleveland and the Upper Waterton Lake



Way more cool and colourful rock on this ascent route than we both thought - just needed the Sun to shine upon it









The view to the west kept us entertained also






Taking a quick detour away from the ascent route to see the great rock
 


Solid rock that makes the southeast side of Crandell pretty much the only area in Waterton where excellent technical climbing exits












Waterton is more than just red argillite!!



Another detour to check out the northwest side of the ridge - lots of terrain there that begs exploration



Another outstanding viewpoint



And more outstanding rock



Stripped of their bark by the 2017 Kenow fire, many of the trees in Waterton now have a white/silver colour
 


Buchanan Northeast is back in shade






The rock band I stood atop of several hours earlier
 





Marks checks out a very distinctive tree



I did too






Before the fire, this slope would essentially be green year-round






Parting look at the objective

The End

LOG