Mount Yamnuska VIII
 
March 12, 2022
 
Mountain height: 2240 m      
Elevation gain:    900 m
Round-trip time:  6.5 hours
 
Solo scramble.
 
Yamnuska saves the day again! When the morning satellite image shows a wall of cloud streaming in from the west but a clear patch of sky right at the mountains/foothills border, The Yam is often your best bet for the most favourable weather. And such was the case for the day’s outing.
 
Another motivating factor for an 8th ascent of Mount Yamnuska was to check out the new and improved hiking/scrambling trail. It would likely be snow covered but probably well tracked.
 
Alberta Parks did an excellent job of re-signing the new hiking trail and rerouting a few sections en route to the far east end of the peak, known as Raven’s End. Likewise for the scramble route to the summit. Blue markers and a good warning sign about the potential dangers of this scramble (not hike) should hopefully keep people as safe as possible on what can be a very serious scramble in less than ideal conditions.
 
For descent I took the west ridge route, but once again tried to stay near the ridge for as long as possible. The new trail stays far from the edge and misses several cool and vertiginous views along the ridge.
 


From the Yam/Goat col at the far west end of Yamnuska, I was hoping to complete the new descent route that goes through the trees to the west – but really I wasn’t! The old route traverses under the awe-inspiring south face of the iconic mountain and is replete with amazing views of that face. Heavy snow cover on the new route promoted me to take old reliable. As expected, the views were terrific and the descent straightforward.
 
A very satisfying trip on a mountain that never provides anything less.  


The new signs leave no room for confusion



The occasional view of Yamnuska from the hiking trail



Right to left: Mount McGillivray, "Gilligan Peak", Skogan Peak



I don't know if this lake has a name, but, given it's shape, it should be Heart Lake!



Gaining elevation, with improving views



Approaching Raven's End - the east end of Yamnuska



New information and warning sign - it's a good read



End of the hike - start of the scramble



To the northwest and north sit Morrowmount, Wendell Mountain, and the East End of Wendell



The scramble starts by going through the gap at the left



Yamnuska's north ridge



Another strategically placed sign and a good section of the route ahead



The sign - this is a must-read for everyone who reaches this point. Excellent work Alberta Parks!



A steep snow gully to ascend. Glad I had at least Microspikes for this.



The classic Yam view down the south face



Same as above



The blue markers help to keep everyone on route



Epic nostalgia! The hole in the mountain from which you emerge if ascending the famous Grillmair Chimney route on the face.



The face is consistently awe-inspiring, regardless of how many times you've seen it



At the chain section (around the corner, at the left) and looking at the remainder of the route



Looking back at the chain section. The chain is too small to see, but it basically goes right across the face at mid-height.



Detours to the right are required to get past some very steep terrain



Staying on the trail instead of following the ridge



The highlight of the trip was this short section of amazing snow scenery



















See the sideways face?









Summit view to the east



Summit view to the west



Descending and staying near the edge for the best views



This minor highpoint definitely deserves a quick visit



Looking down the near vertical south face. Trails in the scree are visible.



Continuing to follow the ups and downs of the ridge



The reason why staying near the edge is really cool



Same as above



Don't get too close though!



Another reason



Looking down again



Pano of two highpoints



Same as above






Approaching the Yamnuska/Goat col



Wonderful rock scenery on the west end of the mountain



Looking down the gully that should have cost me my life when I foolishly tried to descend it in February of 2002



The great rock scenery continues



Same as above



Another new sign. I did try the West Col Descent, but it was too snowy.



The pinnacle at the top has on it the last few pitches of the King's Chimney route and a few others



Best view of the west end, the south face, and that death gully



Close-up of the gully. In February of 2002, I slipped near the top, was launched into an involuntary glissade, side-swiped the boulder at the bottom, went airborne, and landed on my back a few metres from the edge of the cliff. Walked away unscathed but severely shaken and grateful I didn't go over the cliff. Bought an ice axe several days later!  
 


West end of the south face that is home to Easy Street, Windy Slabs, King's Chimney, and many others



The centre of the face is home to a huge host of higher level climbs



Following the prominent scree trails across the face



Heading down the once famous scree run. It's more rubble than fine scree these days and varies in the quality of scree surfing.



Easy to see why this is such an iconic peak - what a beaut!



The "always good to see" frozen waterfall, though it's looking pretty thin right now



Parting look at this fine mountain



Checking out  the Yamnuska Bluffs climbing cliffs

The End

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