Yarrow Ridge III
February 17, 2020
Mountain height: 2128 m
Elevation gain: 750 m
Roundtrip time: 5:45
Solo scramble.
I’ve ascended outrageously colourful and interesting Yarrow Ridge
several times, via various routes. However,
doing the trip in perfect weather has somewhat eluded me. This day was no
exception, though I knew full well beforehand that gloomy skies would rule the
day.
Besides the exercise and just being out there, the objective of the day
was to explore the southeast side of Yarrow Ridge. The east and northeast side
of the minor outlier of a major outlier - Mount Yarrow, which is essentially
an outlier of Mount Roche - are
fantastically scenic and the southeast side appeared to offer a similar visual
experience.
The route did not disappoint in the least – super colourful layers of
rock and striking formations all over the place. I tried to resist taking a
line up through the stunning rock and for a time succeeded – for a time!
Eventually
I did get suckered into followed a snow and ice filled gully alongside an
awesome rock band. This started off quite well, the hard snow providing good
footing with crampons and an ice axe. Soon, however, the terrain became quite
steep and icy. Of course, the higher I got, the more dangerous a retreat down
the same line became. Reaching a point where things became very serious, I
opted to traverse to safer terrain. Thankfully, that terrain was only a short
distance away and soon I arrived at the first on the two summits of Yarrow
Ridge. Even with cloudy weather, the views were pretty sweet. They were even
sweeter from the second and slightly higher summit, only a few hundred metres
away. The east face of Yarrow looked especially interesting. Regrettably, I
accidentally erased all the photos from my phone of this part of the trip,
before downloading them. No matter – that provides a perfect excuse to return!
For descent, I opted to follow a ridge going south from the summit. This
turned out to be an awesome decision, the ridge teeming with (my favourite) red
argillite, as well as other scenic delights. A pleasant walk back around the
mountain ended a very interesting and sometimes exhilarating day out.
Note: to my surprise, after looking over some previous trips reports, I
discovered I had actually ascended the difficult gully a few years ago after a
partial ascent of Cloudy Ridge Junior – not sure if that memory loss is a good
or bad thing – if this continues I could repeat every mountain I’ve ever done and
it would feel like the first time!
Not the weather I was hoping for, but the weather I expected
Yarrow Ridge - it doesn't look that colourful from afar
A more direct route to the ridge is possible up the right side. I went to the lower left, around the rock bands.
This is why I went around the rock bands
Not the worst weather, but put the full brunt of the Sun on this colourful rock and you are in for a treat
Lots of tempting routes to take through the rock
A particularly striking outcrop of folded rock
Close-up
Another striking example of rock folding
The snow gully I couldn't resist
Getting steeper
The colourful rock kept me moving up - definitely my Achilles Heel!
End of the line. The terrain was not intensely steep, but it was very icy.
Looking back towards the failed route
Of course there is lots of interesting rock to look at while traversing onto a safer line
And lots of clearly defined rock layers
Much easier terrain to the ridge
Left to right: Dungarvan, Cloudy Ridge Junior, Cloudy Ridge, Cloudowan
Colourful layers of rock continue to impress
Had a stayed in the gully, I would have had to ascend this snow slope
Looking down the route I avoided
Some of the crazy rock on the south side of the northeast ridge
On the ridge, looking to the two summits of Yarrow Ridge, with Mount Yarrow and Mount Roche to the right
Mount Roche is commonly called Spread Eagle Mountain
Looking north towards Bakery Peak (distant left) and Raptor Peak (foreground)
Spionkop Ridge, with Newman Peak behind
Heading down and running into a magnificent band of red argillite
The first summit of Yarrow in the background
View to the south
More argillite
Looking back to the impressive east side of Mount Yarrow (left) and Yarrow Ridge (right)
Big cairn near the end of the south ridge
\
Looking down the rest of the south ridge - took a chance that a route down and to the right would work and it did
Lots of great rock on the way down
View up the Yarrow Creek valley
Found a good weakness in a vertical rock band that lines the south side
Looking back at the weakness (right)
Snow in the drainage made easy work of the steepish descent
Last look at Mount Yarrow
Looking up the route I descended
Many other interesting routes up this side of the mountain
Easy hike back around the peak
Some elevation gain is required, but it's gentle and scenic
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Passing the route I took up, at the left
Back at the trailhead. Yarrow Ridge at the right.
The End
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