Yarrow Ridge III
February 17, 2020
Mountain height: 2128 m
Elevation gain: 750 m
Roundtrip time: 5:45
Solo scramble.
I’ve ascended outrageously colourful and interesting Yarrow Ridge
several times, via various routes. However,
doing the trip in perfect weather has somewhat eluded me. This day was no
exception, though I knew full well beforehand that gloomy skies would rule the
day.
Besides the exercise and just being out there, the objective of the day
was to explore the southeast side of Yarrow Ridge. The east and northeast side
of the minor outlier of a major outlier - Mount Yarrow, which is essentially
an outlier of Mount Roche - are
fantastically scenic and the southeast side appeared to offer a similar visual
experience.
The route did not disappoint in the least – super colourful layers of
rock and striking formations all over the place. I tried to resist taking a
line up through the stunning rock and for a time succeeded – for a time!
Eventually
I did get suckered into followed a snow and ice filled gully alongside an
awesome rock band. This started off quite well, the hard snow providing good
footing with crampons and an ice axe. Soon, however, the terrain became quite
steep and icy. Of course, the higher I got, the more dangerous a retreat down
the same line became. Reaching a point where things became very serious, I
opted to traverse to safer terrain. Thankfully, that terrain was only a short
distance away and soon I arrived at the first on the two summits of Yarrow
Ridge. Even with cloudy weather, the views were pretty sweet. They were even
sweeter from the second and slightly higher summit, only a few hundred metres
away. The east face of Yarrow looked especially interesting. Regrettably, I
accidentally erased all the photos from my phone of this part of the trip,
before downloading them. No matter – that provides a perfect excuse to return!
For descent, I opted to follow a ridge going south from the summit. This
turned out to be an awesome decision, the ridge teeming with (my favourite) red
argillite, as well as other scenic delights. A pleasant walk back around the
mountain ended a very interesting and sometimes exhilarating day out.
Note: to my surprise, after looking over some previous trips reports, I
discovered I had actually ascended the difficult gully a few years ago after a
partial ascent of Cloudy Ridge Junior – not sure if that memory loss is a good
or bad thing – if this continues I could repeat every mountain I’ve ever done and
it would feel like the first time!
Not the weather I was hoping for, but the weather I expected

Yarrow Ridge - it doesn't look that colourful from afar

A more direct route to the ridge is possible up the right side. I went to the lower left, around the rock bands.

This is why I went around the rock bands

Not the worst weather, but put the full brunt of the Sun on this colourful rock and you are in for a treat

Lots of tempting routes to take through the rock

A particularly striking outcrop of folded rock

Close-up

Another striking example of rock folding

The snow gully I couldn't resist

Getting steeper

The colourful rock kept me moving up - definitely my Achilles Heel!

End of the line. The terrain was not intensely steep, but it was very icy.

Looking back towards the failed route

Of course there is lots of interesting rock to look at while traversing onto a safer line

And lots of clearly defined rock layers

Much easier terrain to the ridge

Left to right: Dungarvan, Cloudy Ridge Junior, Cloudy Ridge, Cloudowan

Colourful layers of rock continue to impress


Had a stayed in the gully, I would have had to ascend this snow slope

Looking down the route I avoided

Some of the crazy rock on the south side of the northeast ridge

On the ridge, looking to the two summits of Yarrow Ridge, with Mount Yarrow and Mount Roche to the right

Mount Roche is commonly called Spread Eagle Mountain

Looking north towards Bakery Peak (distant left) and Raptor Peak (foreground)

Spionkop Ridge, with Newman Peak behind

Heading down and running into a magnificent band of red argillite



The first summit of Yarrow in the background

View to the south

More argillite

Looking back to the impressive east side of Mount Yarrow (left) and Yarrow Ridge (right)

Big cairn near the end of the south ridge
\
Looking down the rest of the south ridge - took a chance that a route down and to the right would work and it did

Lots of great rock on the way down



View up the Yarrow Creek valley

Found a good weakness in a vertical rock band that lines the south side

Looking back at the weakness (right)

Snow in the drainage made easy work of the steepish descent

Last look at Mount Yarrow

Looking up the route I descended

Many other interesting routes up this side of the mountain

Easy hike back around the peak

Some elevation gain is required, but it's gentle and scenic
\
Passing the route I took up, at the left

Back at the trailhead. Yarrow Ridge at the right.
The End
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