September 22, 2025
Mountain height: 2918 m
Elevation gain: 1076 m
Ascent time: 4:35
Descent time: 3:45
Scrambling with
Doug Robson.
Although
neither Doug nor I were thinking it during the very challenging ascent, when
all was said and done this turned out to be one of the best ascents of the year
for both of us.
Having ascended
the highest summit of the three-peak Headwall Peak massif in 2016, I thought
the second highest would be a good challenge. Views of the ascent slopes were
plentiful during an ascent of Mount Chesmill, a year earlier. Those views were quite intriguing.
Legend, John Martin recorded the first
ascent (documented) of the south summit of Headwall Peak in 1981. Mr. Martin had approached the route
from the Sawmill parking lot, but we started from the Chester Lake lot. This
approach would be a little shorter and not require an ascent of Chesmill’s
outlier first and then a necessary elevation loss.
After biking
about 4 km and hiking 600 metres of the Headwall Lakes trail we turned right,
up the drainage that would lead into the bowl Jones describes. 
We hoped the
drainage wouldn’t be a bushy nightmare and our wish was granted. In fact, it
was a veritable dream to ascend - boulders and waterworn rock with great
footing and no bush.
As soon as
Chesmill’s outlier popped into view, we turned left, making our way easily into
the bowl. From there we could see two potential routes to the summit of
Headwall South: gain and follow the ridge to the left or gain a ramp near the
right side that seemed to go left and up to the summit. We chose the former,
the latter appearing to be potentially very exposed in a few sections.
Gaining the
ridge was totally awesome, save the last few metres. I picked a line where two
rock bands met up, forming a staircase of solid and colourful rock. Too bad it
deteriorated to sketchy garbage near the end.
The ridge
provided a whole new level of entertainment - thrills, chills, but thankfully
no spills! As well, the slopes were littered with beautiful rock, in shape
and colour. And views to the west were fantastic.
We followed this
line for as long as possible but we could see that higher up things would get
really serious - in fact, too serious. The ridge dropped off and even if we
could get down to the slabby terrain below, that terrain was way too steep for our
liking. We both tried to find routes up, but eventually decided it was best to
play it safe and bail on the ascent. After descending to a safe spot, we took a
well-deserved lunch break, enjoying the rewarding views and beautiful weather.
Just as we were
about to start the descent, Doug spotted a potential line to the north. There
was no harm in at least checking it out. We traversed a steep slab over to
another ridge, where to our surprise, a less steep route appeared. The route,
however, was still far from a pushover, requiring route-finding and challenging terrain.
The grade reared
up just before reaching the summit ridge. Luckily, this section of steep but
solid rock was covered in barnacle-like protrusions that made great hand- and
footholds. It was a joy to ascend. Without them, we may not have made the
ridge. The reward of gaining the ridge was a breath-taking view of Headwall
Peak and the Headwall Lakes valley. A short, entertaining ridgewalk later and
we were on the summit, both quite happy with ourselves. We were also more than
happy with the stunning summit views in every direction. A long, gratifying summit stay ensued.
For descent we
decided to retrace our route up for the first half and then deviate further
north, taking a direct path down to the Headwall Lakes trail. The challenges of
this route didn’t let up for a second, but it was also thoroughly enjoyable –
lots of solid, cool rock to downclimb and a pleasant change of scenery. Having
said that, we were both quite relieved to be reunited with the Headwall Lake trail.
The hike back to the bikes was super easy and the 4 km bike ride to the parking
lot,13 minutes of heaven!
Headwall Peak
South definitely offered way more than we both we expected. As stated, one of
the highlights of the year.
Doug gets a great photo of Prairie Lookout (far left), Mount Robertson
(just left of centre), and Mount Sir Douglas (just right of centre) (photo by Doug)
The first open view of the Headwall Lakes valley
In the ascent drainage (photo by Doug)
The boulders and slabs made for an easy and enjoyable ascent of the drainage
A larch!
The upper reaches of the drainage and a great view of Mount Chester
Chester and a larch
Approaching the bowl. The summit of Headwall South at the left.
The summit of Mount Chesmill, just left of centre
The outlier of Chesmill
The view to the northwest is starting to open up
Cool lighting on Chester (photo by Doug)
Close-up of Chester
Checking out the view in the opposite direction before heading up Headwall (photo by Doug)
I ascended the obvious line between the two types of rock
To avoid knocking rocks down on each other, Doug took a different line
Great scrambling up solid rock with lots of good holds
And some cool rock outcrops
Looking down
Getting out of the gully was unpleasant, on steep, sketchy terrain (photo by Doug)
Improving views
Same as above
Doug on that sketchy terrain
Awesome views to the southwest...
...and northwest will capture our attention for the next few hours
And Mount Chester too (photo by Doug)
Doug on the ridge
The route ahead
Easy terrain to start, but looks like there are drop-offs ahead (photo by Doug)
Small rock outcrop mirroring the orientation of Mount Chester
Approaching the first drop-off along the ridge
Beautiful rock...and not an isolated event for the day
Doug starts down one of the trickier steps of the ascent...
...at the exposed and awkward crux...
...and he's done it!
Another section where care was required. It's actually fairly exposed at the left.
Views of Smuts, The Fist, Shark, and Assiniboine are enough to distract us from the exposed ridge
Assiniboine
Sir Douglas
Alcantara
The Fist
Still drooling over the view to the southwest
Doug on the ridge again
And more beautiful, lichen-covered rock
Where things are starting to look too serious
This gorgeous rock outcrop got tons of photo attention
Doug on the ridge AND the view to the southwest - double the fun!
Looking over to Chester and that rock outcrop, but we are still heading straight up
The intimidating view straight up. We tried to get down to the slabs on the right side but failed.
At least we have something new to drool over
I may need a bib!
Downclimbing
the ridge after failing to find a route to the slabs. This terrain is
much steeper than it appears and I felt it necessary to face into the
mountain (photo by Doug).
Lunch time, having decided to bail on the ascent
But no! We are going to traverse across this slab and look for another line
The left side of the ridge we were on
Doug leads the way over to the next ridge
I decided to ascend here, alongside the aforementioned rock outcrop - solid rock and great scrambling
Looking back to where we came from
Unexpectedly resuming the ascent
Gaining elevation with relative ease for now
Passing the "love of my life" rock outcrop, but on the other side of it (photo by Doug)
Without me
Another cool-looking route up, but it's super steep. I would definitely want grippy approach shoes on those slabs.
Doug looks up the less than trivial route ahead - it's steep too
But we are still going up (photo by Doug)
Looking
down the final ascent slopes. Not easy to see, but this is the slope
that is covered in rocky protrusions that make the climbing much easier
(photo by Doug).
Approaching the upper ridge (photo by Doug)
First view you see over the other side
Doug is on the slabs, but camouflaged
A more comprehensive view
Headwall Peak (left) and Mount James Walker
Short hike/scramble to the summit of Headwall Peak South
The aesthetic look of Headwall Peak is now going to get the attention
Getting closer
View through a gap
Steps away from the top (photo by Doug)
Here comes Doug
Bigger view, but Doug is looking smaller
West
South. Chesmill is the lower highpoint, right of centre
Mount Joffre
Assiniboine and Lunette
Headwall and the sparse summit cairn
James Walker
The magnificent Opal Range in the background
Fisher Peak at the left
Much of the other route up, we were looking at, can be seen - it's the
obvious line through the rock at the lower section, just right of centre
Good Day, Doug!
Summit panos
Most of the Headwall Lakes Valley and the mountains around it (photo by Doug)
Mount Inflexible (left), Kent Ridge North (right), and the connecting ridge between them
Doug's summit photos
Me (photo by Doug)
View to the northwest (photo by Doug)
View to the southwest (photo by Doug)
All of it (photo by Doug)
The Headwall Lakes
The Fortress
Inflexible
A view that just keeps giving! (photo by Doug)
Doug beefs up the meager cairn
Doug and the new cairn
Descending
I faced into the mountain a great deal on descent (photo by Doug)
Surprisingly, Doug was able to scramble up "the love of my life" rock band!
He's heading down the ridge, while to try to figure out how the heck he got up there
Sometime later, looking up some of the beautiful rock we have just descended
More cool terrain to downclimb. We are now on a different route than the one we ascended (photo by Doug).
Have to look back up
This section was fun, on solid rock, with lots of good holds
Doug is just about to disappear behind the rock band
Another section of enjoyable downclimbing (photo by Doug)
Another mirroring example
Little Chester very much mirrors Little Galatea, the Chesmill outlier, and Kent Ridge North Outlier
Doug leads the way. Contrary to appearance, the terrain here is still
very steep. At no point were we "hopping, skipping, singing "Zip-A-Dee-Doo-Dah"" our way down
this route!
Nice grassy bench and Chester
Descending this was fun
Getting close to the valley bottom
Looking back up again
Yet again, on terrain that deserves respect - it's steep
A little downclimbing gets us into an easier drainage
This drainage
From where we came
Different perspective of the Headwall Lakes valley
So close!
The tough stuff has finally ended
Different perspective of Chester also
Now we can hop, skip, and sing "Zip-A-Dee-Doo-Dah" but we're too tired for any of them!
Little Chester and Mount Chester
The first open view of the valley, about 8 hours later
Parting look of Chester before the amazing bike ride back to the start to end a fantastic trip!
The End
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