Pincher
Ridge VI and
Pincher Ridge Centre Peak II
October
20, 2018
Mountain
heights: 2423 m and 2290 m
Elevation gain: approximately 1000 m
Ascent time: 3:55 to Pincher Ridge
Traverse
time: 1:30 to Centre Peak
Descent
time: 1:45
Solo
scramble.
There are such things as healthy obsessions (at
least I have conveniently convinced myself of that!), and an ascent of Pincher
Ridge’s south side became my “white whale” for 2018.
After two very interesting trips up and down the
peak, but in lousy weather conditions during the summer, I wasn’t about to go near
this mountain unless the Mother of all high pressure systems was in place and
the Canadian Rockies were in the middle of a doozy in early October – well
deserved given the unprecedented miserable September we had just experienced!
The day was forecast to be very windy, but all I cared about was no clouds and
no forest fire smoke.
The plan was simply to repeat the easy ascent route
I had found in August. That didn’t last long. A short distance up the ascent
slopes, I decided to check out the drainage to the left. There was plenty of
water running down it and a decent sized waterfall near the top. I thought an
ascent alongside the drainage might raise the route up to the status of mildly
entertaining. And for the most part it did. That was until the Sun rose enough
to illuminate the upper waterfall. At that point things rose to the status of simply
magical! Everyone loves waterfalls, but a
waterfall cascading down the multi-coloured rock of The Castle is a rare and
breath-taking treat. I stayed in the area for at least 30 minutes enjoying the
spectacle.
A potential route to scramble up the colourful rock
near the waterfall did appear, but I was happy to stay on easier terrain, to
admire the amazing colours and rock. An easy route to the ridge soon appeared
and in short order I was on the ridge, being brutalized by the wind (which had
been a non-issue up to this point, since the route alongside the drainage was
protected from any west winds).
Once again I chose to ascend the south ridge on its
east side (actually below the ridge) not only to see the lichen covered rock
but also to seek reprieve from the vicious wind. A group of sheep, who didn’t
want to make way for me (nor should they – it is their home, not mine or any
other humans’) eventually forced me to gain the ridge. A very slow and
physically draining plod up lichen covered boulders to the summit followed.
Usually I love this kind of the terrain, but the wind was relentless,
threatening to knock me off my feet throughout.
My summit stay was no more than two minutes. I
definitely had the Centre Peak of Pincher on my mind. My first ascent of that peak
was a tour de force of unreal weather phenomena and remains as one of the most
memorable solo trips I’ve ever done. Shockingly I could still see yellow
larches on the intervening ridge between the main and centre peaks – unusual
for late October.
The traverse over to the Centre Peak was as magical
as the aforementioned waterfall, highlights of which were: stunning views back towards
the main summit and Pincher’s northeast ridge, the larches that were still holding
their needles, and then the larches that had shed them forming a carpet of yellow
atop the white snow, a short but fun scramble to the summit, and of course the
outrageously eye-catching summit view. Again, my summit stay was short, due to
the wind, but I can’t imagine being more satiated at that point. For descent, I
took a more direct route down to the valley below, which of course produced
another array of scenic treasures.
Mark and I both agreed that
our recent ascent of Crypt Peak
would be very hard to beat, ever, but Pincher Ridge certainly did its
best to
give Crypt a run for it’s money. A totally awesome day! I'm adding this
route to the list of "Trips I could once a year, every year, until I
die".
Someone died and then someone licked that bone clean!
The waterfall I went up to
The Sun (yeah!) hits the summit of Pincher
Great water scenery in the drainage
The waterfall near the top looked pretty decent without the Sun on it
And "Here Comes the SUN"!
Full Sun on the waterfall and rock
If you get close enough a rainbow is visible
Comparison of no direct Sun (left) and full Sun (right)
Heading up, alongside the colourful rock
Looking back at the waterfall
Crazy colours!
The easier path up to the ridge
Sun-bleached trees - another terrific feature of all trips in this area
On Pincher's sweet, south ridge. Too bad that photos cannot show wind, because it was brutal at this point!
Back down below the ridge
Sun and lichen - sweet!
The South Peak of Pincher Ridge at the left
Traversing below the ridge to see the lichen covered rock
Beautiful rock
The group of goats that halted my progress below the ridge
Backing up to find a route to the ridge
Back on the ridge, looking at the south east side of Pincher
Looking down the ridge. The big peak at the upper right is Loaf Mountain.
Much better summit view than Pincher Ridge V
....by quite a bit!
Another one of my favourites - Prairie Bluff
And don't forget Victoria Peak and Ridge
Castle Peak on the right requires only one pitch of 5.6 climbing, but it looks scary!
Windsor Mountain accidentally turned out to be a much easier objective.
Descending to the main/Centre col and looking back to the main summit.
There is no shortage of red argillite on this mountain.
Looking forward to the Centre Peak
Another large group of sheep on the mountain
The views back to the main summit start to get really cool
Speaking of red argillite, the northeast ridge of Pincher is a gold (red) mine of it
A yellow carpet of larch needles
The summit of Centre through the larches
More tenacious larches holding onto their needles.
Given the insane wind common to the area, I'll tip my hat to these guys
Larches and the Centre Peak
The snow made the terrain look more intimidating than it normally is.
Still, it's only a few moves of moderate scrambling.
The scrambling section
Looking back again. This was the unequivocal highlight of the view and warranted a gazillion photos!
More beautiful rock and the blue sky that slept through the entire month of September
Mount Gladstone peaks over Victoria Ridge
At the summit of the Centre Peak with the South Peak at the left
The super colourful main summit of Pincher
Part of that northeast ridge and Prairie Bluff
Victoria Peak
A more comprehensive look to the north and northwest
And then back to the star of the show
As stated - a gazillion photos!
Heading down and still taking photos
The northeast ridge and Prairie Bluff again
Heading down wonderful scree slopes, directly down to the valley and still snapping photos of Pincher
Throw in Drywood Mountain at the right for good measure
.....or a dead tree
The Centre Peak
This tree appears to have grown atop a boulder
Beautiful slopes and the valley below
You can't go anywhere on this mountain without running into something that will stop you dead in your tracks
The yellow/orange scree makes up the normal ascent/descent route.
The south ridge is far more enjoyable, with no bushwhacking.
Centre Peak (left) and the main summit (right). I descended just left of centre.
The waterfall in Drywood Creek
Hiking back to my bike before a super fast and easy ride back
The End
