Victoria Peak III
(via the northwest ridge)
July 3, 2020
Mountain height: 2587 m
Total elevation gain: 1331 m
Round-trip time: 8:24
Scrambling with Dave and Brad.
Just over two months had passed since my first
attempt at this route and with all the snow gone I was very excited to try
again. The stars definitely seemed in alignment for the attempt as:
1. A perfect weather day was forecast.
2. Rob Schnell had recently completed the route
and confirmed it was a moderate scramble (and also a totally awesome one at
that!).
3. I would get to complete the 4 km approach on
my newly purchased ebike (electric bike).
4. Dave and Brad were available and also
excited to do the route.
After enduring a light-hearted and very
humorous “ribbing” about my use of an ebike, we cycled the approach gas road (one
of us with far more ease than the others!) and started up the treed slopes at
the far end of the northwest ridge. In addition to making the approach almost
effortless for me, the ebike provided plenty of fodder for my companion’s
comedic routines – we all laughed most of the way up!
Without the snow the ascent to the ridge and
ridgewalk to the start of the scrambling was infinitely easier, and with clear
skies infinitely more scenic. And of course, once the scrambling started, the
three of us were in proverbial heaven, enjoying everything we collectively love
about the mountains: the scrambling, the rock, the scenery, the company and camaraderie,
the feeling of smallness amid grandeur surroundings, the appreciation of nature
– its beauty and its brutality, and (for me) the oversized chocolate bar in my backpack!
We soon surpassed the point I had reached on my
earlier attempt and continued up interesting terrain to the summit, each of us taking
a slightly different route for the final push. Our summit stay was not excessively long, as we
had already decided to try an alternate descent route. Having thoroughly seduced
us throughout the ascent the long west ridge was not going to be denied a visit
and it was clear that all three of us were smitten! The ridge would add a little extra distance,
but it looked to be a straightforward route and would maximize the time we spent
above treeline.
In short, this descent route was OUTSTANDING!
(the grammatically questionable capitalization of the word hopefully conveys
how outstanding it was). Endless ups and downs of fun scrambling on terrific
rock (colour not quality) kept us engaged, challenged, and awed for several
hours. In fact, our descent time ended up exceeding our ascent time, and we all
agreed the west ridge would be an even better ascent route than the northwest
ridge. Throughout, I was reminded of how honoured and blessed I feel to be able
to spend a day in the mountains with Dave and Brad – two adventurous and like-minded
individuals, with an intrinsic love of the mountains and not a milligram of ego
between them. Thank you, my friends.
Back to the trip. We soon were faced with the
decision of where to leave the ridge and descend to the valley. Going all the
way to the summit of Whitney Ridge was a possibility but would require about
150 m of additional elevation gain. We were all getting tired at this point and
instead decided to descend treed slopes from the lowpoint of the ridge and
follow the creek out. Though not a heinous route, it was far from a cakewalk
and I would not use it as an ascent route in the future – better to go directly
to the summit of Whitney Ridge first.
Eventually we arrived at the creek, hoping to
find the same trail we used for the first part of the Whitney Ridge ascent.
None was to be found and so a moderate bushwhack ensued. After that another round
of ebike humor preceded an exhilarating bike back to the start.
Fantastic day and fantastic route – period! I’m
already planning a return trip but in the opposite direction. Big thanks to Dave,
Brad, and Victoria.
Click HERE to see Dave’s excellent (and e-bike
joke riddled) report!
Had to stop by Butcher Lake on the drive in to check out the objective (left) and the summits of Prairie: Storm, Sky, Fire, and Bluff
The aesthetic south side of Victoria Peak. Our ascent route would tackle the opposite side of the mountain.
Also aesthetic (and challenging) is the east face of Prairie Bluff
There's the new ebike - it's going to be a game changer for gas road approaches! (photo by Dave)
Brad and I cycle the easy road. There's Victoria Peak ahead (photo by Dave).
Closer look at the northwest ridge of Victoria
The bushwhack after ditching our bikes. This section was brutal in April (photo by Dave).
Mount Gladstone
Mill Creek Mountain (left) and Mill Creek Peak
On the ridge and ready to rumble!
Brad and I head for the second treed section before the scrambling starts (photo by Dave)
Brad leads the way, with the interesting ridge ahead
Dave ponders existence before we start scrambling (or maybe he's just staring at Prairie Bluff, as I often do!)
Dave almost looks like he's floating up the mountain!
Classic Brad, smoking his pipe before the fun begins!
Dave and Prairie Bluff
Sizing up the fun ahead (photo by Dave)
Up we go (photo by Dave)
Classic Brad again - he's going straight up this challenging terrain
Dave
has already circumvented the rock band and is looking down on us. I'm
heading for the easy route after watching Brad go up (photo by Dave).
Big stretchy move for Brad to finish the step
Prairie Bluff was not the only mountain to ogle at - Windsor Mountain and Castle Peak are also Castle favourites
The fun scrambling continues (photo by Dave)
And Brad continues to pick the challenging lines (photo by Dave)
What is Dave photographing?
....me and Brad and the remainder of the route (photo by Dave)
Dave got a "bunch" of terrific flower shots throughout the trip (photo by Dave)
Dave and Brad detour over to the northeast side of the ridge. There was
a very narrow, exposed ledge going across the face, however, after our Triple Divide Peak experience there was no way Dave and I were going anywhere near that ledge!
\
Instead, we would just breathe in the awesome view behind us!
At the base of the first major obstacle - my turn around point on April 25
My turn to find a route up the obstacle (photo by Dave)
The next obstacle
Brad finds an old, rusted piece of the metal - evidence of human traffic long before we got there (photo by Dave)
Another ledge, but for goats only! (photo by Dave)
Dave found a weakness in this rock band
Back on the ridge and checking out the next section of the ascent
Another detour over to the left to check out some colourful rock
This
ledge would actually grant a route towards the summit, but so did the
terrain on the other side. We chose the other side (photo by Dave).
The ledge was a great spot for a break
The colourful rock above (photo by Dave)
Resuming travel
Dave leads another rock step
This view is going to keep me mesmerized for some time
Dave and Brad tackle the steep rock band
I went around, but at least got a decent photo of Brad topping out
Still a ways to go
And still mesmerized!
Dave finds a cool little alcove in the rock face
Sections of steep scrambling for the upper section
Had to go to the right here
The small window (hole in the rock) is a feature sometimes encountered on the south face route
Dave (upper left) went hard right and gained the ridge via a steep couloir
Brad and I (because of my obsession with Prairie Bluff) stayed left
At this point, we were both forced to go right
Brad picks his route
It was a steep one!
The Boys at the summit
Dave is already chowing down, getting some much needed energy for the long descent
Close-up of Windsor Mountain. Mostly flat Lys Ridge behind and Jake Smith Peak and Scarpe Mountain behind Lys.
Close-up of Castle Peak. The distinctive peak with the vertical east face, right of Castle, is Tombstone Mountain.
The other guys enjoying their summit stay (photo by Dave)
The Prairie's, in all their glory
Dave is keen to start the west ridge descent route
Brad stayed behind - no doubt to stare at Prairie Bluff!
The northwest ridge is the light coloured rock at the right and the
long west ridge stretches from one side of the photo to the
other
The view between the ridges
Brad and Dave look over to our ascent route on the northwest ridge
We've reached the point where you turn right (west) to try the west
ridge or continue south to the summit of Victoria Ridge - one of the
best ridge scrambles in the southern Rockies
Gladstone and the "up and down" west ridge
Looking back up to the summit and the ridge we are descending (there will be lots of that on the way down!)
What is Dave photographing now?
....me descending the ridge and the summit (photo by Dave)
Tons are easy downclimbing - that's why this ridge would make a great ascent route - tons of fun upclimbing!
Fun stuff! (photo by Dave)
More of the same (photo by Dave)
This ridge goes on and on and on, but who cares when the views are this good
And of course, the views behind us are pretty darn good too
More photo magic by Dave (photo by Dave)
Rounding out another "bunch" of great photos by Dave (photo by Dave)
Brad is peering down the right side of the ridge
One of the highpoints along the Victoria Peak to Ridge traverse
Obviously,
one of the rock bands I circumvented (I'm at the lower right), but
again, this would be so much fun to upclmib (photo by Dave)
One of the more colourful sections of the ridge
More downclimbing for Dave
Approaching another "up" along the ridge
Dave takes the high road, Brad takes the low
Can't stop looking back. Boston would be disappointed!
Walking along the crest of the ridge was fantastic
Another Boston classic (the vocal harmonies are superb!)
Dave hits another highpoint
Quick food break at this highpoint. There are still several ups and downs to negotiate.
Gives me time to check out the cool rock
Careful downclimbing here (photo by Dave)
Same for Dave
Brad surveys the ridge ahead
Dave tackles yet another downclimb. Thankfully most were small and not significantly exposed.
Up again
Down again
And then across a semi-exposed section (photo by Dave)
The upcoming section of ridge was super cool (photo by Dave)
Dave leads the way
A very narrow slice of ridge. We avoided it on the right side..... (photo by Dave)
....but couldn't resist this tasty upclimb at the end
Above the upclimb the terrain continues to be interesting and challenging (photo by Dave)
Brad strolls over another highpoint, but it's not the last
Descending that one (photo by Dave)
Another perspective of the northwest ridge ascent route and Prairie Bluff
Dave and Brad hit a lowpoint...
Dave and Brad ascend to another highpoint....
....across the ridge....
...ogling at the rock...
....and down the other side (photo by Dave)
Finally, it's time to descend
Heading into the bushy section of the descent. It wasn't as bad as it looks (photo by Dave).
Down at the creek (photo by Dave)
Evil laugh, as I ponder how easy the gas road will be on my ebike! (photo by Dave)
Starting the last 4 km of a phenomenal day (photo by Dave)
The End
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