Buchanan Northeast III






   
February 2, 2024
 
Mountain height: 2424 m
Elevation gain:    900 m
Ascent time:        3:20
Descent time:      2:25
 
Scrambling with Dave.
 
Two previous ascents of the northeastern-most outlier of Buchanan Ridge had yielded fantastic results and there was no reason to think a third “kick at the can” wouldn’t do the same. Dave was also super motivated, having set out to attempt the significant peak more than ten times, but never even leaving his vehicle due to horrendous weather conditions (i.e. classic Waterton gale-force winds!).
 
Armed with a decent weather window, abnormally warm temperatures, and looking at essentially snow-free ascent slopes, we set off around 9:30 am. Crossing Cameron was easy wearing hip-waders, as was the short trek to the base of the mountain. Although you can get from base to summit without ever having to touch a rock, the most enjoyable route follows one of several lines of solid, beautiful rock that is a joy to ascend. Unfortunately, that rock eventually disappears under scree and rubble, so best to take advantage while it lasts.
 
Once past the scrambling section, we took slightly different lines up to the ridge. I stuck to the scree, while Dave chose the snow. Regardless of the route you take, both are significantly foreshortened. Reunited on the ridge, we hiked a short distance in the wrong direction to a minor highpoint to the west. This small diversion had been the highlight of my first trip up the peak and I wanted to relive the experience. While short, the ascent was entertaining, as Dave punched through waist-deep snow.
 
After taking in an amazing view towards “The Senator”, Buchanan Ridge, Mount Carthew, and Mount Alderson, we turned around and hiked easily to the summit of Northeast. Another round of “oohs” and aahs” ensued. The summit of Northeast is nicely situated in the park to offer stunning views in every direction.
 
Right from the start of the trip we had already decided to make it a loop by descending the north ridge to a wonderful ramp that leads easily back to the start. Clearly, my rose-tinted recollection of this descent route was exactly that – rose-tinted! Initially all was going well. The terrain was steep and tedious at times, but nothing alarming, and snow-free conditions persisted. At a certain point, we decided to traverse left and descend a snow-filled gully. Unfortunately, the snow in the gully was not to be trusted and we generally steered clear of it.
 
When that gully suddenly dropped off, we were forced right, back towards the north ridge on very snowy slopes. Like my trip less than 24 hours earlier on Rowe East Minor, the snow here was either rock-hard or mid-thigh deep. I donned crampons and an ice axe and started traversing. Unfortunately, a potential line down through the cliffband that lines most of the face lured me down and suddenly I was into the mid-thigh deep snow, where the technical gear was useless. Dave fared much better by taking a more direct route down, but again through deep snow on very steep slopes. Reunited for the second time we both enjoyed the wonderful ramp descent, sharing and laughing about our respective and unexpected horror stories down the snowy section.
 
Buchanan Northeast thoroughly satisfies for a third time. A big thank you to Dave for his engaging and entertaining company. It was awesome to share this summit with a great and life-long friend. A repeat trip up the southeast ridge with the Man From Lethbridge is already planned for this summer!

Click HERE to see Dave's excellent report.


Checking out the route up the objective (left) and stunned at the lack of snow for the second day of February (photo by Dave)



A reminder that the LA Rams started the 2023 season 3-6, but won their last 7 out of 8 to make it onto the playoffs. They didn't get past the first round, but I'm looking forward to next season already! It's been 24 years since "The Tackle" and 2 years since the last 2 minutes of magic at Super Bowl LXVI! (photo by Dave)



Hip-wader crossing of Cameron Creek (photo by Dave)



Dave follows. I lent him my brother's size 8 waders - Dave is about 6 feet tall - the waders did not fit!



Another creek crossing, but this one can be jumped (photo by Dave)



Steep hike initially through burned trees and new growth (photo by Dave)



Dave rocks!



We did briefly consider trying to ascend the outlier at the right, but eventually decided against it (photo by Dave)



This outlier. Could possibly be ascended in the summer (photo by Dave).



Dave makes his way up a section of super cool and solid rock



Had to dodge a few trees



Another step of scrambling



He's up



My turn (photo by Dave)



Mount Lineham is one of the tallest peaks in the park, but is overshadowed by nearby Piinaquiium (photo by Dave)



Mount Rowe is considerably shorter than Lineham, but has many interesting routes to its summit. The eastern highpoint of Rowe is seen here (photo by Dave).



Unfortunately, much of the rock is downsloping, but it is solid and grippy



Scrambling without gloves in early February - unheard of! (photo by Dave)



Good view of Mount Galwey and Galwey North (left) (photo by Dave)



Ruby Ridge (left) is just across the road



Sticking to the great footing on the rock before it gives way to scree (photo by Dave)



Same as above (photo by Dave)



The Sun doesn't reach this part of the mountain at all during the winter months, so there are lots of silhouette photos



Dave tackles another section of fun scrambling



The cool and solid rock



Same as above with Dave



Dave stayed left, I took a route up the middle



Love the clouds here



The route in the middle I took (photo by Dave)



Rust-coloured lichen on the rock in front



Dave moves over to the snow gully to see if travel might be easier



Up he goes. The snow was way too inconsistent to consider ascending the gully without crampons and an ice axe. Even with them I would have been leery about it - an involuntary glissade would be very difficult to arrest and the consequences of not arresting were severe.



Nice rock, nice cloud, nice sky, and nice guy



We stayed near the edge for the good snow sections of the gully and then went onto the rock when the snow was too hard (photo by Dave)



Eventually the gully gave way to scree



About time we saw some yellow and orange lichen!



Having a jolly good time! (photo by Dave)



Reunited with more snow (photo by Dave)



Dave chose to take the snow here, I stayed on the scree



On the scree. The footing was generally decent, but the entire slope is foreshortened (photo by Dave).



Dave's snow (photo by Dave)



On the ridge, looking west to the highpoint that was one of the highlights of my first trip



Looking east to the summit of Buchanan NE



Looking west again - an irresistible diversion



The view north includes the king of Waterton - Piinaquiium



North and east



Dave joins me on the ridge and we are ready to check out the highpoint (photo by Dave)



Highpoint at the right and summit at the left (photo by Dave)



Dave falls into a waist-deep hole, but it provides a good rest spot (until he has to get out!)



Past the deep snow (photo by Dave)



Dave enjoys much easier travel to the highpoint



...but the last section has a little sting in its tail



Off he goes


    
Dave leads a slightly tricky section to the top


    
Arrival



My turn (photo by Dave)



Some cloudy views, like this one, are cool (but most suck!)



The east face of Mount Carthew looking very Himalayan



Dave on top



Mount Alderson (photo by Dave)



The rock-hard snow made this short section a little tricky too



Dave descends from the highpoint...



...while I stay behind for a few minutes. I knew Dave's view back up to the highpoint would be a cool one, with an old man standing up top to give it scale.



Had some time to kill, so why not enjoy the views



Dave at the lowpoint


The "Old Man On Top" photo series (all photos by Dave)




















"Old Man Descending" (photo by Dave)



"Old Man Descending - The Sequel" (photo by Dave)



Heading up to the summit, with relatively clear skies ahead (photo by Dave)



Not so clear behind



We played leap-frog throughout this section (photo by Dave)



Easy travel and excited to see the view (photo by Dave)



Dave is too



Summit (photo by Dave)



Dave descends the ridge a short distance to get better views



...these views of the townsite and snippets of the Waterton Lakes (photo by Dave)



Vimy Peak in front and Sofa Mountain behind (photo by Dave)



Back to the summit. View to the west, northwest, and north (photo by Dave).



North, northeast, and east (photo by Dave)



Galwey and Rogan Peak (left) (photo by Dave)







Mount Dungarvan (photo by Dave)



Glendowan, Cloudowan, and Cloudy Ridge (photo by Dave)



My turn to descend the ridge a short distance



Mount Rowe in full at the left (photo by Dave)



Massive cornice on the east side



Close-up



Sweet view towards the lakes



Dave's view of me (photo by Dave)



My view of Dave



Crandell Lake (photo by Dave)



Looking down the very enjoyable southeast ridge



Dave's phone has an amazing zoom. There's his truck, as seen from the summit (photo by Dave).



Still having a jolly good time (photo by Dave)



Dave is gifted in more ways than one - that's a pretty symmetrical jump and it actually looks like he's floating!



Starting what we thought was going to be a super easy descent



It would be easy if you fell through the cornice! (photo by Dave)



Onto more tedious terrain (photo by Dave)



Dave scopes out potential routes down



Mount Crandell (photo by Dave)



In another snow gully, hoping for good conditions



Didn't get them. This gully was similar to the other one - a section of good snow followed by hard snow



Approaching a drop-off in the gully (photo by Dave)



Traversing right (photo by Dave)



My route down



Looking back to the summit, as Dave waits for me (photo by Dave)



Went from having a decent amount of energy to practically none, after the losing battle with the deep snow (photo by Dave)



  Thankfully, the remainder of the trip down a gently-graded ramp is easy and very scenic (photo by Dave)



Lots of interesting rock



Dave stops at a random chunk of red argillite



Looking back at the ascent side



Cameron Creek



Love this crossing because it's less than 50 m from the road (photo by Dave)



Hard to see, but Dave's feet couldn't fit into the bottom of the boots so he basically tip-toed across the creek. As stated, a man of many talents!

The End

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