Jimmy Junior III

Jimmy Junior III

October 1, 2023

Mountain height: 2750 m
Elevation gain: 800 m
Ascent time: 3:50
Descent time: 1:50

Scrambling with Mark.

Got the best of both worlds in my third run up Jimmy Junior – snow-free lower slopes allowing easy access to the exciting scramble route, and snowy upper slopes, enhancing the already magnificent scenery.

Mark and I were looking for a short trip and Jimmy Junior fit the bill perfectly. Mark had never up this outlier of Mount Jimmy Simpson and I was excited to repeat the scramble route up a drainage west of the “normal” route.

Things didn’t look great as we started the trip under cloudy skies and low-lying fog. However, the forecast predicted clearing in the morning.

Following the route I had taken in 2016, we quickly reached the crux of the trip – a short but very steep section of hard dirt that leads into the main drainage. Microspikes worked perfectly here and in fact we kept them on for the remainder of the trip. The drainage was as fantastic as I remembered – fun scrambling alongside numerous cascades and waterfalls.

To add to the fun, as we gained elevation in the soupy weather conditions, blue skies suddenly appeared above, and behind us appeared one of the most remarkable inversions we have ever seen, framed by the sides of the drainage.

The next “wow” moment came when we reached the tarn below Jimmy Junior. The fresh layer of snow and perfect reflections in the tarn inspired us to visit a highpoint above and then circumnavigate the tarn to see all there was to see. We then set our sights on the summit, taking a steep, but interesting route up through numerous rock bands to the ridge. Views of Bow Lake, the tarn, and of course all the wonderful mountains in the area were inspiring throughout.

The last part of the ascent was much easier, and we arrived at the top about 4 hours after leaving – not a fast ascent time, by any stretch, but that includes a few side-trips and lots of breaks to enjoy everything the route had to offer. Needless to say, the summit view was incredible – definitely the best I had experienced on this summit, due to the clear skies and new snow.

The descent is a no-brainer, right down the easy south ridge. Upon reaching the forested terrain below the ridge, we were pleasantly surprised to find a good trail with flagging to lead us out to Bow Lake.

Another awesome trip up this wonderful outlier.

Hiking around Bow Lake

Unusual weather conditions and clouds over the lake

Mount St. Nicholas makes a brief appearance

So does Mount Olive

Heading up the ascent drainage

Still very cloudy over the lake

Cloudy in the drainage too

Approaching the crux of the trip - a short but very steep and slick slope, where extra care is needed. We put the microspikes on here and didn't take them off until back at Bow Lake.

Much easier travel once back in the drainage. First signs of blue sky above the clouds.

Was not expecting that!

More signs of clearing

Eerie but cool

Fun travel in the drainage

The inversion is slowly being revealed

There it is

Minimal water in the drainage, but it still provided much visual entertainment

Same as above

The clouds above Bow Lake are also going to provide much visual entertainment, and for much longer than expected

Another fun section

Had to get at least ONE long exposure photo!

Back to the inversion

Back to the drainage

Ditto for the next three!

The drainage finally comes to an end

But the inversion doesn't

Super cool pool of crystal clear water, with a thin layer of ice at one end

Mark sits on the other side where the ice is

During times of heavier water flow, there is a big waterfall coming down here

Leaving the pool

The inversion finally starts to dissipate

Before ascending the objective, a visit to the tarn below Jimmy Simpson is usually a good idea

Jimmy Simpson (left) and Jimmy Junior

The clouds over the lake are pretty much gone and the lake starts to appear

Jimmy Simpson, a sweet pinnacle, and Jimmy Junior

Same as above with the tarn

The reflections in the tarn were perfect

Mark's view

My view

Gaining a little elevation above the tarn

Mark follows

Same as above

That small elevation gain grants you this view

And this one

Portal Peak

A helicopter flies above us

Heading back to the tarn

Same as above

Had to circumnavigate the entire thing

As stated, the reflections were perfect

Ditto

At the far west end of the lake

A small stream is draining into the tarn

Looking for a good route up Jimmy Junior

Another view of the tarn

It's go time!

First view where both the tarn and Bow Lake are visible - and there will be many more!

Steep grind up to some interesting rock bands

View #2

At the base of the rock bands. The terrain around them is quite steep and loose. We took the easiest route.

The tarn and some of the Wapta Icefield

Traversing right for a easier line

View #3

Still getting pushed to the right

View #4

On the ridge and heading towards the summit

Easy travel all the way to top

There is an easy path up through these rock bands

Big summit cairn ahead

View #5. The tarn is no longer visible but Iceberg Lake is, near the right.

Mark takes the last few steps to the top

West Bow Peak - an odd title for the northeastern outlier of Jimmy Simpson, given that it lies northwest of Bow Lake and Bow Peak

Time for food

Bowcrow Peak has quite the glacier

Mount Hector and Little Hector

Mark at the cairn

View to the north

View to the east and south

View to the south and southwest

Mount Balfour

Balfour, Olive, St. Nicholas, and Gordon

Hector again and the south end of Bow Lake

The cairn is almost as tall as Mark

View to the northeast

More summits shots

Same as above

Same as above

Mount Patterson

Mount Murchison

Bobac and Watermelon

Descending

View #6

Me ruining it

Stunning blue skies

Bow Lake looks better as better as Earth rotates

Same as above

Near the end of the south ridge

Backtracking a little to find the easiest route down

Mount Weed and Silverhorn Mountain

Still getting sweet views of Bow Lake

Crowfoot Mountain towering over the lake

Some random reflections in the lake

Back at the lakeshore

Looking back to Jimmy Junior (centre) and West Bow (right)

Approaching Num-Ti-Jah Lodge and the end of the trip

The End

LOG