Galwey North IV
 
April 14, 2024
 
Mountain height: 2384 m
Elevation gain:    approximately 1000 m
Ascent time:        5:35
Descent time:      3:50
 
Solo scramble.
 
After three straight days in the mountains a rest day was welcome – that was before the Sun rose to reveal the clearest skies of the four-day stretch. No way was I going to sit in the house looking at those beautiful snow-plastered peaks, drenched in Sunshine all day!
    
 
Of course, lots of indecision followed, but I settled on another run at Galwey North. For this trip the plan would be to stay in Coppermine Creek for as long as possible and see where that led me. On a previous trip I had been lured by the ridge above, leaving the creek long before its termination.
 
In short, this was another route that I’m glad I checked out but would likely never repeat. The first part of Coppermine Creek was expectedly spectacular, featuring numerous small waterfalls and cascades. A less than exciting section followed, and then an entertaining snow gully, some of it full of avalanche debris.

    
 
However, several hours after starting out I was still way below the ridge, looking up at complex terrain that may have had a scramble route through or may have been impassable. I decided to traverse over to the ridge, a process that turned out to be much longer than expected, requiring a few elevation losses. By the time I reached the ridge, I was exhausted, not only from the ups and downs of the route but also from significant Sun exposure in the snow gully. I considered calling it a day, as I really wanted to return via the ridge and take my time doing it. Once again, though, the stellar weather and wonderful scenery were too big of a carrot to resist. After a short break I continued up.

 
The remainder of the ascent did NOT unfold with ease. The remaining snow added significant challenge to route-finding and staying off potential avalanche slopes. Nevertheless, I “later than sooner” reached the ridge (greeted for the second day in a row by a set of tracks of a large bear) and then clambered up the short but ridiculously steep east side of the summit block to the top (the west side is super easy!). A fine view awaited there.
    
 
The descent was awesome. Once below the steep and difficult terrain, a wonderful ridgewalk ensued. Although the cornice scenery was not as jaw-dropping as that seen in 2021, my progress slowed considerably to take it all in. Soon the amazing snow stuff gives way to equally amazing rock stuff! This ridge has cemented itself as one of my favourite in the Rockies, due to the wild variety of rock colours and types.
    
 
Leaving the ridge I then followed another beautiful stream back to Coppermine Creek and the trailhead. Biking Red Rock Canyon to end the trip was most satisfying.
 
Even with the ascent route not quite working out, an awesome day of breath-taking scenery and views.

At the start of Coppermine Creek


The trip quickly evolves (or devolves!) into a frenzy of long exposure photos


























Looking back to the north side of Mount Crandell



















The ridge high above is getting the first rays of Sun















One of many tempting gullies that gives access to the ridge











Emerging from the confines of the canyon to more open terrain



Another of those tempting gullies



Not the end of the waterfall scenery yet







The creek forks - I took the right fork



Easy travel up the hardened snow



First good view of Mount Blakiston



Avalanche debris











The route ahead looks convoluted so I veered hard left at the top of the snow gully



Views continue to open up



Going left



Someone else has gone left. Thankfully the beast had hoofs, not claws!



Lots of amazing rock to distract me from the fact that I'm going across and down instead of straight up



I optimistically thought this to be the ridge I was aiming for



More sweet rock



There's Mount Galwey



Almost at the ridge



Nooooooo! The snowy ridge I need to get to is still a good side-slope away.



And some elevation must be lost



Need more distractions



And more



Finally got to turn uphill here



Almost on the ridge



And there, where a good view of everything from Dungarvan to Anderson awaits



Not getting up that, but there's an easy bypass







The route ahead. While usually straightforward, the big snow patch at the lower right made both ascent and descent more challenging. I avoided the patch via a different route in both directions.



The view to the west is always a rewarding one



Anything with a clear blue sky behind it is rewarding too!



The upper ridge is in visual range



Nice scrambling en route



Long overdue encounter with yellow lichen



Looking down to Lost Horse Creek



Mount Galwey and some of the ridge that connects Mount Galwey to North Galwey - a wonderful traverse



There's the summit block







On the ridge, south of the summit, and I have (had) company



Lakeview Ridge looks so small and insignificant from here but it's an awesome massif with tons of variety: I, III, IV, recon.



The summit block and Rogan Peak at the right



This beast had claws and they appeared to be big ones!







Approaching the summit block. I foolishly followed the bear tracks around the right side and then took a very steep route to the summit. There was a super easy one around the left side.



The bear wisely did not go to the summit. His/her tracks went down the mountain here.



My route went up the snow slope, just visible at the right



Atop the summit block, the cairn is only a few steps away



View towards Galwey



Anderson Peak



View from south to west



Dungarvan and Rogan - that traverse is another super cool trip I'd like to repeat someday. Or just Galwey North To Rogan.



West to north view



Blakiston



Lone Mountain in front, Miskwasini and Kenow behind



Newman Senior (left) and Glendowan - another terrific traverse



Cloudy Ridge (left) and Cloudy Ridge Junior


The awesome summit block of Dungarvan



Close-up of Rogan Peak, otherwise known as The Horn or Dungarvan SE2



Mount Galwey is lower than Galwey North but only by about 10 metres



Mount Cleveland



Mount Custer in the distant centre



The easy route down the west side of the summit block



Descending snowless terrain to get past the steep snow patch in front.



Southeast



Back on the ridge looking up it











Excited to return by staying on the ridge throughout



The view back to Galwey North and Mount Galwey is going to be fantastic


    
The cornices I came to see



That's a cool one



From the other side



The route behind



The route ahead







Someone was light enough to walk right along the edge of the cornice and it wasn't me!



I stayed far away from the edge







Huge snow slope sweeping down into Lost Horse Creek







The next section of the ridge is essentially snow-free



However, looking back along the ridge from below is incredible



A cornice and Rogan



From further back



Less snow means more colourful rock is exposed



And the odd twisted, dead tree



And some massive boulders



All of the above















































The snow returns for the final section of ridge



Snow, red argillite, blue sky, and beautiful mountains - one of my favourite scenes of the day



















Crocus



Leaving the ridge and descending back to Coppermine Creek. Mount Crandell dominates the view.



Galwey through the trees



Surprise encounter with another amazing stream running down to join Coppermine Creek


    
Normal exposure vs. long exposure















Clearly I gravitate towards long exposure!



Almost down to Coppermine



And down. The creek always looks better later in the day when the Sun's rays reach it.



Had to stop to check out the sheep on this beautiful outcrop of argillite, with Galwey in the background



Those sheep

The End

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