April 19, 2024
Mountain height: 2760 m
Elevation gain: 1000 m
Ascent time: 5:00
Descent time: 2:50
Scrambling and
some mountaineering with Mark.
I was super
excited to share this trip with Mark. Unofficial O Peak is the lowest outlier
of the incredible OXO massif that also includes OX Peak (all unofficial names).
However, what O lacks in official status and stature it more than compensates
with wild mountain scenery and phenomenal views. In fact, having ascended all
three peaks, I would give O the best overall rating.
We were hoping
the Mosquito Creek Trail, now in late season condition, 
would be packed down enough
to allow a quick snowshoeless approach and it was - Microspikes worked
perfectly. With fingers crossed, we then left the trail to find equally perfect
conditions heading up the south side of O. Even though the snow was still at
least half a metre deep, we did not sink at all, in sharp contrast to my
post-holing ordeal of December 2022.
Similar to that
December ascent, crampons and ice axes were soon employed on steep slopes to
gain the ridge. From that point, we more or less followed the ridge (a less
direct but infinitely more scenic route) as I had done before. Third time and
the route lived up to all my hype and more! As Mark stated, the col between the
false summit and a highpoint further south is one of the coolest spots he has ever
visited anywhere in the mountains (me too!). Several detours to make the most
of the jaw-dropping scenery slowed our progress, but eventually we made the
summit and enjoyed a long break to take in the terrific view.
For descent, we
took a more direct route back to the start of the ridge, one that was
considerably easier than the ascent. Following our uptrack down for the
remainder went with great ease and even with the daytime heating we managed to
avoid having to put the snowshoes on.
An incredibly
rewarding third ascent of a somewhat obscure peak that deserves far more
attention than it receives.
First look at the objective
The south ridge of O Peak at the left and the Quartzite, Ramp, Mosquito trio at the right
Off the main trail and arriving at an open area to check out the south ridge
Approaching the main slope and still encountering perfect snow conditions
The main ascent slope - it's much steeper than it looks
Using the snow and the snow-free terrain to make the ascent safer
Onto gentler terrain
Mark takes to last few steps to reach the south/east ridge. Noseeum Peak behind.
Big terrain once the ridge is reached
Bow Peak in the centre and the southeast shoulder of Dolomite Peak at the right
The south ridge is at the right, but first we decided to take a minor detour over to the left
That curve of snow caught our attention
Heading over to it
Same as above
Mark climbs over a small but cool snow feature
Trying to catch up
The multiple peaks of Dolomite Peak peak over the snow - that's fun to say!
The curve of snow we were attracted to
My turn to climb up the step
Mark and Dolomite
Same as above with OX Peak
Close-up of OX - that won't be the last!
I guess this terrain is also a little steeper than it looks, as I chose the front step/side step method of ascent
Finally on the south ridge
Mark's view of me
My view of him
The ridge provides multiple spots with stunning views of the ridge itself and/or the surrounding mountains
Here is one of them
Same as above
And again
One with me
One with no one
The view to the east and southeast
Staying near the edge of the ridge is preferable but not always possible when snow covered
Possible here
And here
Steeper terrain further up the ridge
Another of those stunning views. The summit is just left of centre.
The Mosquito trio and more from a very different vantage point
Not sure where the cornice starts here
But we were giving it a wide berth just in case
It's a low consequence cornice however
Same as above
The summit looks close but it's still about 45 minutes away
This cornice was avoided altogether
Side-sloping to the col between the two highpoints
Same as above
And again
The easterly highpoint always looks very dramatic
The western one is pretty cool too
The spot between the two is fantastic and was worth a long look and a short break
Same as above
The west
The east
Beautiful, but there is no route up that way. A massive cornice prevents it.
Continuing up. On December 4, 2022 I was able to sneak up the snow ramp
in the centre. However, the day's cornice made that too risky so we
went around it.
Still had to sneak around some cool rock
That rock
Continuing up to the next highpoint
Different view of the rock of the westerly highpoint
Looking back to the east
A dramatic ridge, lined with cornices make this another special part of the ascent
We didn't have to go to this highpoint, but it provides an amazing view of the summit of O and it's vertical northeast face
Last little stretch to the summit
Giving this cornice an even wider berth!
Mark's view of me heading up to the summit
My view of him on the highpoint before the summit
At the top
View to the east
Dolomite, OX, and OXO
Close-up of OX
Close-up of OXO
The cairn and the Willingdons
Close-up of the Willingdons
Our vehicle is somewhere down there in the middle
Mount Balfour
Mount Daly
The Goodsirs and Cathedral Mountain
Mount Hector, Little Hector, and Mount Andromache
Molar Mountain and Molar Tower
Cataract Peak
Obligatory summit pose
Same as above in the opposite direction
Replace one model with a slightly older one
Descending via a more direct route
The first highpoint looks amazing from anywhere on the mountain
Getting back to some curves of snow
Same as above with OX
As always Noseeum Mountain is in-your-face all the way down
So is OX
The Fang is that small pointed peak in the centre
Pretty darn happy about how things are turning out
The waterfalls en route to Noseeum are phenomenal
Back over that lip of snow
Vast snowfields and a deep blue sky - unbeatable!
Same as above
Heading back down to the Mosquito Creek Trail
It's steep enough here to warrant facing into the slope
Mark has disappeared because he's glissading
My turn to glissade
The northwest side of Noseeum
The Mosquito trio look a little better later in the day
So does the south ridge of O
Back to the spot where O Peak first appeared
The End
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