Storm Mountain
(Banff)






 

 
September 7, 2024
 
Mountain height:      3161 m
Total elevation gain: 1500 m
Ascent time:             5:05
Descent time:           3:00
Round-trip time:       8:40
 
Scrambling with Dan.
 
I owe Iceface Peak and GC20 apologies in triplicate. While both were incredibly scenic throughout, I was quite critical of the traumatizing terrain underfoot for those ascents. Enter: Banff’s Storm Mountain. Storm made Iceface and GC20 seem like 10-minute strolls on a paved path, nothing but Sunshine overhead, and the birds singing in 6-part harmony! (2:30-2:45, with the small crescendo at 2:38, is one of the most beautiful passages of music in human history). Once the ascent of Storm begins in earnest, it’s 800 vertical metres of sheer horror – insanely loose rubble and scree on steep slopes, threatening to slide down the entire mountain. “Unpleasant” terrain for 20-60 minutes is bad enough but 3 hours of it just plain sucks!   
 
Storm had long been on my “to-do” list, and I was waiting for a perfect weather day to try. I was also hesitant to do the trip in late spring as a snow ascent because of avalanche concerns. September 7, 2024, fit my criteria and I had a willing partner in Dan to accompany me up this formidable mountain.
 
Although we didn’t find THE trail near the beginning of the ascent, we did find snippets of trails, as Dan led the way, up steep forested slopes. Having heard several nightmarish tales of endless bushwhacking and log hopping we were quite relieved to be spared from both. Eventually we intercepted THE trail and travel became very easy and pleasant.
 
Entering the bowl below the summit was also a very pleasant and rewarding experience. We stuck to the left side of the valley, boulder-hopping all the way to a good viewpoint just above the first of two large tarns in the adjacent valley. The small price of this minor detour (initially) was a longer than expected traverse across a tricky boulder field to get back on route.
 
We paid a much bigger price by turning up Storm’s main ascent slope too early. And it was this decision that led to my earlier scathing review of the ascent. In fact, had we taken a route further to the right (as we did on descent), I could have downgraded the words “sheer horror” to “unending torture”!


 
It seemed to take forever to reach easier terrain, but we eventually did and then continued on to the summit. Even that part of the trip dragged on for much longer than either of us expected or wanted. Just over 5 hours after leaving we stepped onto the summit for the moment of truth – would the summit view justify the trauma of the ascent?? My answer to that question would be a somewhat forced, “yeah, sorta’, kinda’,….I guess so”. At a significant height of 3161 m Storm does tower over pretty much everything around it. The problem is that many of the surrounding mountains are some distance away, so you don’t get any of those amazing “in your face” views. Both Iceface and GC20, two unofficial mountains of inferior heights, had far superior panoramas. A surprising amount of forest fire smoke also conspired to detract from our enjoyment of the view.
 
Nevertheless, we did take a long break, and the more I took in the view, the better it became. In fact, were I to repeat this trip, I would do it in late Spring, with snow and little chance of fire smoke. Seeing the surrounding mountains, snow-covered with crystal clear blue skies above would undoubtedly be breath-taking.
 
We very briefly considered taking an alternate route down through the valley to the south, but eventually decided it would to better to deal with “the devil we knew”. This turned out well, as we were able to find and follow a slightly more palatable route down the mountain, generally following a worn path in the scree – on ascent we had completely missed this path. While this did take some of the sting out of the return, there is no getting down Storm Mountain in an expedient manner, unless the slopes are snow-covered. Once back below treeline we were also able to follow THE trail out to the highway, eliminating almost all of the bushwhacking.
 
The jury will be out for a while on this trip. The route did have several redeeming features, and the summit view was excellent. Also, if our day had not been preceded by four totally awesome trips (Iceface, GC20, Seward, and Michel Head), each featuring amazing and varied scenery throughout, I may have been less critical of the one-dimensional experience on Storm.
 
Last of all, big thanks to Dan for joining me on this trip. He was positive throughout, didn’t whine at all (like the old dude he was with), and of course handled the nasty terrain as if it was nothing. Sorry I couldn’t deliver another Mount Niles to you, Dan!



Some of the initial bushwhacking



The only view you get for the first few hours, but it's a good one of Mount Whymper



A little log hopping, but nothing too difficult



The end of Storm's west ridge



Out of the bush and onto the rock



Whymper again



Boulder hopping up the drainage



There are many huge boulders to gawk at



And lots of black water streaks



Smiling here - that's because the sheer horror has not yet begun! (photo by Dan)







Still enjoying the boulder hopping



Eventually we will need to go hard right



Approaching a house-sized boulder that's too perfectly lined up with the ridge behind



Dan atop the small boulder in front of the house-sized one



Dan checks out the partial view we got of the tarns below Vista Peak (just left of centre)



The tarns are surrounded by larches and would be a great destination during larch season



Peaks up the Chickadee Valley, including Chimney Peak



Dan starts the longish boulder traverse to the ascent line



Typical terrain on the traverse - had to be careful here, as there were many deep holes



Approaching the sheer horror



I'm still lost in the boulders (photo by Dan)



The west ridge of Storm and a whiny guy lagging behind (photo by Dan)



Dan blends into the horror



Typical grade of the main ascent slopes (and it's all severely loose!)



At least the views are improving



More rubble horror



Peaks of the Kootenay area start to appear



Great view, but there's clearly a layer of haze above the mountains



The mountain does have tons of super cool rock



The rock and the view



Off the horror and onto more forgiving terrain



Dan set a good pace. Unfortunately, I couldn't keep up because I felt as though I had just been forced to watch The Exorcist (viewer discretion) ten times in a row, alone in the dungeon of an abandoned castle in Transylvania, with my eyes taped open, and an IV of adrenaline.



A decent view of Mount Temple to take my mind off heads spinning 360 degrees and projectile vomiting



View to the north



Whiny guy on the horizon (photo by Dan)



The east ridge of Storm is reported to be an excellent 5.6 route



Vista Peak is definitely a trip I would repeat



The summit is in sight



The impressive length of Castle Mountain in the background. Dan and I had two super memorable days on its east end, Eisenhower Peak.



Storm's northwest side is quite fascinating



The west ridge is less fascinating but the mountains in the background are cool



Looks like someone has finally recovered from the horror (photo by Dan)



Some of the Lower Twin Lake and a tarn are visible from the summit (photo by Dan)



Summit pano (photo by Dan)



Close-up of Lower Twin Lake



More unnamed peaks to the south. Routes up several of them are described in David Jones' book.



Dan lets his family know he's safe at the top



The Goodsirs just left of centre



A closer look at the beautiful peaks



Lots of impressive peaks to the northwest



Further northwest, Deltaform, Hungabee, and many of the mountains of The Valley Of The Ten Peaks are visible



Temple



Stanley Peak. The famous snow/ice Kahl route up the mountain (right side) is looking very unhealthy



Mount Ball


Summit panos











The haze and clouds obscure Mount Hector



Mount Ball at the left and several unofficial outliers of Storm in the foreground (photo by Dan)



One of my new summer rituals for hot days: buy a litre of orange juice, freeze it overnight, stick it in your backpack in the morning, and its guaranteed to be thawed and icy cold when you reach the summit! (photo by Dan)



Heading down (photo by Dan)











The steep descent route and the bluest sky we got all day



Not easy to see but Dan is on a trail in the scree here



Looking back up. We ascended on the left side and descended on the right.



Looking a little less hazy to the north



Vista again



Dan on the rubble



Apparently there are creatures that DO like the horror!




Big rock on a big mountain



Going past it




An eastern outlier of Whymper near the left



The colours of Storm look far better later in the day



Back to that flat stretch before entering the forest



Whymper and its outlier



Different view of Vista



Vista, Storm, and the west end of Storm (and so happy to be done with this mountain!)

The End

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