Sofa Mountain IV
Vimy Peak attempt II
October 9, 2021
Mountain height: 2515 m (Sofa)
Total elevation gain: approximately 1600 m
Round-trip time: 10:10
Solo scramble.
Hot off an astounding second ascent of Crypt
Peak via Vimy Ridge, I was extremely motivated to try to reach the summit of
Vimy Ridge (and then possibly on to Crypt Peak) via Sofa Mountain. The route
had alluded me 11 years earlier because of a late start. 
This time, however,
not only did I have a full day to make the attempt but also an excellent route
description from Grand Master, on Chris Goble’s website.
The big question mark for the day was going
to the wind – big surprise for southern Alberta! With gusts forecast to reach
60 km/h I was not overly concerned (60 km/h is considered a light breeze in
Waterton!), but not overjoyed either. Making my way up Sofa Mountain and
getting pushed around by those gusts, I started to become concerned. Having spent
a huge portion of my mountain life in the south of the province I know the
difference between a 60 km/h wind and a 90, and this was definitely closer to
90! Nevertheless, the skies were clear, the views were fantastic, and until the
wind threatened to blow me completely off the mountain I was going to continue.
Leaving the summit of Sofa, the situation did
improve, with diminished winds and even an occasional reprieve. Good thing, as
the next section, called the “Sheep Shearer’s Ridge” by some, has some
nail-biting exposure and challenging terrain. Once past this section, an
enjoyable scramble brought me to the first high point of the traverse.
Disappointingly, I was greeted by that
strong, gusty wind upon reaching the high point. Getting down to the next col
required traversing across and down a rock face on small ledges – similar to
the Galwey crux but longer and far more exposed. Without the wind I might have
given it a go, but the wind wasn’t about to die down anytime soon. Bailing at this
point was a no-brainer and that’s exactly what I did.
I salvaged the day a little by exploring the
southwest side of Sofa Mountain and then descending the “other” route down
Sofa. Throughout, the wind didn’t let up for a second.
Not the result I wanted, but I’m glad a
second attempt was made. A third is unlikely to happen. It’s a great route but
very long and challenging in regard to route-finding and terrain. Even if I had
made it to the summit of Vimy, I think Crypt would have been out of reach. In
addition, returning to Sofa would have made for an epically long day with an
enormous amount of elevation gain. Even Grand Master himself had not retraced
his route back and had split the trip into two days.
Thanks for the good times, Sofa to Vimy!
A late start time is clearly not an issue today!
Approaching Sofa Mountain's primary ascent routes. The left route is
Bob Spirko's route and the one I took up. I came down the route at the
right.
Morning Sun on the other route
The Sun hits a host of eastern front Waterton scrambles, including Bellevue Hill, Lakeview Ridge, and Mount Galwey
Typical terrain on the Spirko ascent route. Great rock and tons of options to choose easy to difficult routes up.
Love the Autumn colours of Waterton
Easy hike to the summit of Sofa (far left) from here
Mount Cleveland (left) and striking Miche Wabum Peak
Pano of the area
The easy hike is takes longer than you think. Chief Mountain at the far left.
En route to the summit of Sofa, the route to Vimy is revealed, following the ridge from left to right, then back to the left
"Sofa East" - a very entertaining ascent
Summit rocks and the view
The cairn
Crypt Peak - I still had hopes of making the summit at this point of the day
In Glacier National Park, Chapman, Kintla, and Kinnerly
Long Knife Peak - one of my favourite mountains to photograph
Alderson (left) and Carthew (centre) - two awesome Kane scrambles
Mount Lineham, just left of centre. Part of the another fantastic Kane route, the Blakiston Horseshoe
And there is Mount Blakiston
Not as striking as the above mountains, but the line of peaks from Bellevue Hill to Newman Peak are all fun ascents
(Bellevue, Galwey, "Rogan", Dungarvan, Dundy, Cloudy Ridge, Cloudowan, Glendowan, Newman Senior)
Descending to the col between Sofa and the first high point along the traverse
Same as above
Easy travel to begin with
But then things get interesting. The "Sheep Shearer's Ridge" is ahead and it provides a healthy dose of exposure
When the ridge became too sketchy I was able to descend and traverse below the difficulties
Traversing and trying to find an easy route back to the ridge
The rock is very solid near the ridge
Big blocks
Past the difficulties and back on the ridge
The next obstacle must be circumvented on the left side
Again, returning to the ridge
At one point, after bailing, I considered a side-sloping route here, but the deep cleft at the left appeared to be untraversable
Looking over to the northwest side of Sofa Mountain, an area I have yet to explore
Looks tricky but there is an easier route up, just left of centre
The rock for this section was stunning
Random splash of yellow lichen
Looking back to Sofa
Up top and looking north along a section of the Vimy Ridge Traverse. Arras Peak is near the left side.
Sofa
and the "Sheep Shearer's Ridge". So interesting to see the line of rock
that makes up the ridge and how the top eroded, leaving just the Sheep
Shearer section for a small section.
End of the line. Getting down to the ridge at the left was very
exposed. The strong, gusty wind was the deciding factor in bailing at
this point.
Back at the "Sheep Shearer's Ridge"
Looking back at the route
Exploring the southwest side of Sofa
The south side of Sofa is very close to the U.S./Canada border.
Sentinel Mountain (centre) and Sarcee Mountain (right) are both in
Glacier National Park, Montana.
Nice rocks!
Blakiston makes Arras (in front) look very small - probably because it is!
Closer look at Miche Wabum
Another part of Sofa I have not been to. I was very tempted to descend
into this valley and then hike around the southeast side of the
mountain to get back to the trail
Back near the summit of Sofa and ready to descend the other route (the ridge in the centre)
The valley between the two routes up Sofa. Although it looks impossibly
steep from this angle, there is a nice route up to the ridge, just left
of the big patch of trees in the centre.
Mount Crandell and a slither of the Middle Waterton Lake
Great views of the eastern side of Waterton and the "other, other"
route down Sofa. I descended that route in June of 2021.
The white rock on this mountain is super solid and fun to scramble up and down
Crandell again
And again!!
I didn't scramble down the center of this rock, but it sure looks like fun to scramble up it
Looking over to the Spirko route
Descending the "other, other" ridge takes you to the high points in the
center, at which point you have to traverse over to the "other" ridge
On the "other" ridge
Parting look at the entire Spirko route
The Sun sinks below the horizon, as do my hopes of ever completing this route!
The End
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