Drywood Mountain VIII





                                                                                   
 
February 12, 2026
 
Mountain height: 2464 m
Elevation gain:    930 m
Ascent time:        4:00
Descent time:      2:25
 
Solo scramble.
 
Disappointingly, when the “mainly sunny” forecast changed to “mainly cloudy” overnight, I was forced to change plans from a reasonably big objective to an exploratory trip. I eventually settled on a line I had seen from Pincher Ridge on the north side of Drywood Mountain, west of the Spirko inspired route I used in 2011. The new route would first visit the popular ice climb, The Gasser, and then hopefully ascend a drainage to the left of the ice.
 
The approach to the climb went with surprising ease, thanks to a terrific trail that leads right into the drainage where the ice sits. The base of the climb was also reached without too much ado. En route I passed by the subsidiary drainage that was the intended line of ascent, noting it appeared to be straightforward.
 
However, in my zeal to get a closer look at The Gasser, I soon found myself ascending increasingly steep and challenging terrain towards the ice climb and away from the subsidiary drainage. Traversing over to the route became impossible due to cliffs below and downclimbing what I had come up was unsavoury at best. Instead, I continued right up to the rock face, hoping I could follow the ledge at the base to safer terrain.
 
Luckily, the ledge was mostly snow-free, granting me easy and interesting travel; unluckily, it was not exposure-free and at one point I spent ten minutes chopping two steps into a small frozen waterfall that was barring the way (a repeat of Woody VII, a few weeks earlier). A slip here would have sent me immediately over a huge cliff and so I made sure those steps were bomber! Beyond that, much easier terrain led to the ridge above.
 
Decision time. The weather sucked (cloudy and extremely windy) and I was still 400 vertical metres from the summit. However, the intervening terrain looked straightforward, if not inspiring. I decided to finish the job. The saving grace of the earlier ledge traverse was complete shelter from the wind. Now out in the open, the wind was merciless. Though not quite a repeat of Bridle Peak V (where I was actually concerned for my life for several minutes near the summit!), that wind sucked much of the enjoyment out of the remainder of the ascent. I eventually reached the summit ridge, battled my way to the top, took 5 photos, and then turned around immediately.
 
The obvious route choice for getting down the mountain was via the route I had initially intended to ascend. I was hoping to stay on the ridge through most of the descent, but the wind had other ideas – it was relentless and I relented, quickly leaving the ridge and heading into the gully. The gully did provide a decent route down, however, much of it was deceivingly steep and quite tedious to descend. And in a normal February, the snow in the centre would probably offer easy plunge-stepping. Unfortunately, an unusually warm and snow-less second month had hardened whatever snow remained in the area almost to ice. Even with crampons and an ice axe I would not have descended the snow. Nevertheless, I made it down unscathed (if not expediently) and enjoyed a much easier return to the start.
 
Mixed reviews for this route. Firstly, I would never repeat my actual ascent route. Going up the way I came down would certainly be preferable and I would attempt it when there is either no snow, or snow that’s actually fun to ascend, not traumatizing. Having ascended Drywood Mountain via 5 different routes, I would rank this one as #4. A repeat ascent may happen, but only in perfect weather conditions.  



Quick stop at Butcher Lake. Very unusual to see open water in February.



Magnificent Victoria Peak



I considered trying a partial new route up Prairie Bluff, near the left side, but decided it would wait for another day



Hiking the Drywood Falls trail and getting a good look at a fantastic route I took up Bridle Peak, a few weeks earlier



Sun on Cinch Hill



The route up Bridle (up the middle) doesn't look like much from the trail, but it's a "ring-a-ding-dong-dandy"!



The Sun lighting up the summit of Pincher Ridge



Mourning the last of the Sun's direct rays I will see for the reminder of the trip



Passing the north ridge route up Drywood



Off the main trail and heading towards The Gasser, just left of centre



The Gasser



Close-up - it appears to have succumbed to the unusually warm January and February weather



In the drainage that leads to the ice climbs



At first the drainage is completely dry



Pincher Ridge is going to dominate until I've gained a significant amount of elevation



Ice starts to appear



Looking left to the route I intended to ascend



Instead I'm ascending these cools slabs towards The Gasser



Getting closer to the climbs



I have some company. This little guy got as much photo attention as the mountain scenery.



Still going up, even though I should have stopped here, descended a little, and then traversed over to the intended line



I tried to steer clear of the animal but he/she kept changing direction



Ascending increasingly steep terrain near the ice



Hard to turn around when the area is littered with cool ice formations



This might be the "Fluffy Saves the Day" ice climb



Apparently he/she is not camera shy



Close-up







Definitely keeping an eye on me



Another cool chunk of ice







Looking down the route



Best shot of the upper part of The Gasser



I wanted to get right up to the ice formation near the lower left, but the terrain was getting dangerously steep



Fluffy, The Gasser, and the amazing rock above The Gasser



The chunk of ice I wanted to get close to - this is a zoomed in shot, taken from afar



Now at the same height as The Gasser, having ascended some very steep snow slopes



The aforementioned amazing rock



Lots of other cool ice formations to check out















Leaving the area



Following a ledge below the enormous rock band above and hoping it leads to "freedom"!




The rock above



This rock would be fantastic on a clear day with the Sun on it



Much of the rock is very solid and would offer good climbing, but not scrambling



The wall is near vertical



Things are looking good here



Not happy to see snow on the ledge but it turned out to be inconsequential



Looking back



Still enamoured with that rock above The Gasser



Another ledge near the left



Pincher framed between my ascent route at the left and the eventual descent route at the right



It's getting very exposed and that ice right of centre is blocking the route - good thing I had my ice axe to chop steps



The rock gets less vertical, but it would still be a very stiff scramble with severe consequences if you slipped



Freedom!



Again, looking down the route, with the Drywood Falls trail far below







The terrain above The Gasser might be ideal for another exploratory trip



Above all the difficulties and deciding if I want to go all the way to the summit, just left of centre



Interesting snow couloir that would be right up Brad and Dave's alley. The southwest summit of Pincher Ridge behind.



The cloud cover has killed the colours



One of very few rock bands along the somewhat mundane route



The summit of Victoria Ridge in the centre







The intended descent ridge to the north



Happy to encounter some red argillite; not happy about the absence of the Sun







Castle Peak and Windsor Mountain join the view in the distant centre



There they are



A tiring slog to the summit ridge, exacerbated by super strong winds



Cool delineation of rock types



On the summit ridge; summit at the left.



The view in the other direction



Always an interesting hike/scramble to the summit from here, but the wind was merciless



Photographing the lichen, but more importantly getting a moment of shelter from the wind



At the top



View to the south



West



Northwest



North



Already descending



I was hoping to follow the ridge throughout the descent, but that proved to be a challenge because of the wind



Another lichen break



Close-up



Looking back to the summit



Able to enjoy a few colourful moments on the ridge



Distant peaks to the southwest, including Kenow and Miskwasini



Loaf Mountain



Redwood Peak



Looking down some of the route Dave and I took in 2025



Looking down the northeast ridge. That's a route I would gladly repeat. Woody just right of centre - many more explorations of that gem are planned.



"The Twig" near the left and more of the northeast ridge route



Looking back up the ridge I've descended so far



Larches at the right



Close-up of them



Heading into the mostly wind-sheltered drainage (the initial ascent route) after being pummelled by the wind



Close-up of The Gasser



Close-up of the ice that provided the crux of the trip



Less close-up



Better view of the ice and the consequences of slipping



Looking down the descent drainage. If the snow wasn't like ice, the route would have been more enjoyable and less tedious.



The lower part of the route



Nice rock



At the bottom of the route looking up it



Goodbye to The Gasser



A ridge on the south ridge of Pincher Ridge that I have partially seen but would like to explore more



Parting glance at the north side of Drywood



Pleasant travel near Drywood Creek



The challenging east ridge of Pincher



May have to check out that red argillite band in the future!

The End

LOG